Archive for February, 2009

Rapaport TradeWire – Friday, February 27, 2009

Friday, February 27th, 2009

By Rapaport

Debswana, the world’s largest diamond producer, to shut operations until April 15 and suspend production of two mines through 2009. We estimate the move will reduce their annual production by about 20% or by 6-7 mil. cts. De Beers to borrow $500 mil. from shareholders, 2008 rough sales flat at $5.9 bil. even though they increased prices by 14%. 2008 profits at $90 million. Gold passes $1,000/oz for first time since March 2008. U.S. Jan. jewelry price index +5%. German and Indian jewelry shows better than expected. Zale 2Q sales -18% to $679 mil. with loss of $24 mil. and plans to close 115 stores. Birks & Mayors 3Q sales -28% to $88 mil. with $42.7 mil. loss. Bidz.com 4Q jewelry sales -44% to $35 mil. profits -64% to $3 mil. J. C. Penney 4Q sales -10% to $5.8 bil. same store sales -11% and profits -51% to $211 mil. with jewelry ranking as weakest category. Macao 4Q watch, jewelry sales +22% to $138 mil. Fortunoff liquidates. Finlay to exit department stores and close 40 specialty boutiques.

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Sierra Leone ‘blood diamond’ rebels found guilty of war crimes

Thursday, February 26th, 2009

By Mike Pflanz, West Africa Correspondent


Telegraph.co.uk


The UN-backed Special Court for Sierra Leone found Issa Sesay, Morris Kallon and Augustine Gbao guilty of most of 18 counts of war crimes and crimes against humanity carried out during the country’s brutal civil war.

The decade of fighting, fuelled by the trade in “blood diamonds”, only ended when Britain sent 800 Paratroopers into the country to combat the Revolutionary United Front, the rebel group commanded by the three men.

The war killed more than 120,000 people and left tens of thousands maimed after their arms, legs, noses or ears were cut off by RUF rebels, who were largely bankrolled by Charles Taylor, then president of neighbouring Liberia, who paid in weapons for Sierra Leone’s diamonds.

“Today’s judgement (…) respects the suffering of the multitude of victims who were mutilated or enslaved, who were murdered or raped, and who were rendered homeless or destitute,” said Stephen Rapp, the court’s prosecutor.

The RUF was also notorious for its Small Boys Units, made up of child soldiers as young as eight who were forcibly recruited and then drugged and sent to fight with AK47 assault rifles.

They became among the most feared units in what was one of the world’s most vicious civil wars.

The three RUF leaders were initially indicted along with RUF founder Foday Sankoh, a close ally of Taylor. But Sankoh died in custody before the case ever came to trial.

Taylor is currently on trial in The Hague, in a separate branch of the Special Court. Mr Rapp said on Tuesday that he may walk free because international donors hit by the global economic crisis have failed adequately to fund its functions.

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Classic Diamonds Showcased Sophistication and Old Hollywood Glamour at the 81st Annual Academy Awards(R)

Monday, February 23rd, 2009

LOS ANGELES, Feb. 23 /PRNewswire/ — DIAMONDS, in all their natural beauty, dazzled on the red carpet at the 81st Annual Academy Awards(R). Oscar nominees and attendees chose diamonds to accessorize their glamorous looks for Hollywood’s biggest night.

Throwback glamour was the mood of the evening as evidenced by the classic and alluring looks of iconic Hollywood beauties. Academy Award winner Kate Winslet channeled Grace Kelly in her 28 carat pear shaped diamond cluster earrings, 117 carat multi-cut diamond bracelet and diamond ring by Chopard. Audrey Hepburn’s spirit was present in both Anne Hathaway wearing a diamond starburst brooch in hair, diamond watch bracelet, diamond swirl earrings, and diamond rings by Cartier and in Academy Award winner Penelope Cruz who wore the ultimate diamond classics – diamond riviere necklace, stacked diamond line bracelets and diamond studs from Chopard.

Timeless allure was revealed, as diamonds were the foundation of many Red Carpet ensembles. Taraji P. Henson’s 19th Century diamond statement necklace and 6 carat cushion cut diamond drop earrings from Fred Leighton framed her face beautifully. The diamond mixed cut micro-set drop earrings and diamond 3 stone ring from William Goldberg worn by Queen Latifah were the perfect complement to her look. And Amanda Seyfried’s Fred Leighton diamond flower necklace, 19th Century diamond bracelet, old mine cut diamond earrings, and 19th Century diamond ring were the perfect ornamentation to her red dress and Veronica Lake waves.

THE LEGACY AND BEAUTY OF DIAMONDS WERE SHOWCASED IN THE EVENING’S TOP DIAMOND TRENDS featured at the 2009 Academy Awards. The top diamond trends included:

Classic Diamond Drop Earrings

  • *Diane Lane – Neil Lane – Diamond Drop Earrings
  • Jennifer Aniston - Bulgari – Diamond Earrings with 2 Pear Shaped Diamonds
  • Natalie Portman - Kwiat – 6 carat Diamond Drop Earrings
  • Phoebe Cates - Fred Leighton – Diamond Drop Earrings
  • *Queen Latifah - William Goldberg – Diamond Mixed Cut Micro-Set Drop Earrings
  • Reese Witherspoon - Fred Leighton – Diamond Triple Drop Earrings with 7 carat Old Mine Cut Drops
  • *Taraji P. Henson – Fred Leighton – Diamond Pendant Earrings with 6 carat Cushion-Cut Drops

Stunning Diamond Statement Necklaces

  • *Amanda Seyfried – Fred Leighton – 19th Century Diamond Flower Necklace
  • *Diane Lane – Neil Lane – Diamond Fringe Necklace
  • *Penelope Cruz - Chopard – Cushion-Cut Diamond Necklace
  • *Taraji P. Henson – Fred Leighton – Diamond Pendant Earrings with 6 carat Cushion-Cut Drops; 19th Century Diamond Flower Necklace

Spectacular Diamond Bracelets, including diamond line bracelets and cuffs

  • *Amanda Seyfried – Fred Leighton – 19th Century Diamond Bracelet
  • Anne Hathaway – Cartier – Diamond Watch Bracelet from the Private Archive Collection; Diamond Double and Triple Row Bracelet, Cartier London 1934
  • *Diane Lane – Neil Lane – Darkened Diamond and Platinum Bracelet
  • Evan Rachel Wood - Neil Lane – Darkened Diamond Bracelet
  • Halle Berry - H. Stern – Diamond Hera Cuff Bracelet
  • Jennifer Grey - H. Stern – Stern Star Diamond Bracelet in Black and White Diamonds
  • Jessica Biel - Louis Vuitton – Diamond Cuff Bracelet
  • *Kate Winslet – Chopard – Multi-Cut Diamond Bracelet (117 carats)
  • *Penelope Cruz - Chopard – Diamond Bracelets
  • Phoebe Cates - Fred Leighton – Diamond Bracelets
  • Robin Wright Penn – H. Stern - Diamond Bracelet
  • Sarah Jessica Parker – Fred Leighton – Diamond and Gold Arm Bangle
  • Tilda Swinton - Fred Leighton – 9 Diamond and Multi-Colored Gold Bangle Bracelet
  • Tina Fey - Fred Leighton – 19th Century Diamond Flower Bracelet
  • Viola Davis – Fred Leighton – 2 Vintage Diamond Bracelets

The following celebrities wore DIAMONDS to the 81st Annual Academy Awards:

  • Alicia Keys - Fred Leighton – 19th Century Diamond Leaf Pendant Earrings, 19th Century diamond ring
  • *Amanda Seyfried – Fred Leighton – Old Mine Cut Diamond Stud Earrings; 19th Century Diamond Flower Necklace; 19th Century Diamond Bracelet; 19th Century Diamond Ring
  • Amy Adams – Fred Leighton – Diamond Stud Earrings
  • Anil Kapoor - Chopard – Diamond and White Gold Cufflinks
  • Anne Hathaway – Cartier – Diamond Starburst Brooch (worn in hair), Cartier Paris 1958; Diamond and White Gold Swirl Earrings; Diamond Watch Bracelet from the Private Archive Collection; Diamond Double and Triple Row Bracelet, Cartier London 1934; Diamond Pave Ring; 9.6 carat Princess Cut Diamond Ring with Pave details
  • Beyonce - Lorraine Schwartz – 2 Yellow Diamond Flower Rings
  • Brad Pitt - David Yurman – Black Diamond Ring; Black Diamond Cufflinks; Black Diamond Stud Set
  • Deborra-Lee Furness – Fred Leighton – Diamond and Onyx Earrings; 1930’s Diamond and Black Jade Bracelet
  • *Diane Lane – Neil Lane – Diamond Drop Earrings; Diamond Fringe Necklace; Darkened Diamond and Platinum Bracelet; Darkened Diamond and Platinum Rings
  • Evan Rachel Wood - Neil Lane – Darkened Diamond Chandelier Earrings; Darkened Diamond Bracelet; Diamond Ring
  • Frank Langella - Le Vian – Diamond Cufflinks; Diamond Shirt Studs
  • Halle Berry - H. Stern – Diamond Hera Earrings; Diamond Hera Cuff Bracelet; Diamond Hera Ring
  • Heidi Klum – Lorraine Schwartz – Diamond and Coral Earrings; 3 Diamond Bangle Bracelets and 1 Diamond and Coral Bracelet; Diamond and Coral Ring and Diamond Ring
  • Jennifer Aniston - Bulgari – Diamond Earrings with 2 Pear Shaped Diamonds; Emerald-Cut Diamond Ring, over 11 carats
  • Jennifer Grey - H. Stern – Diamond Solitaire Earrings; Stern Star Diamond Bracelet in Black and White Diamonds; Stern Star Diamond Ring
  • Jessica Biel - Louis Vuitton – Diamond Pendant Earrings; Diamond Cuff Bracelet
  • Kate Ledger (Sister of Heath Ledger) – Fred Leighton – Old European Cut Diamond Stud Earrings (7 carats); 2 Turn of the Century Diamond Bracelets; Diamond Octagonal Ring and Diamond Band Ring
  • *Kate Winslet – Chopard – Diamond Pear-Shaped Cluster Earrings (28 carats); Multi-Cut Diamond Bracelet (117 carats); Diamond Ring
  • Maria Menounos – Platt Jewelers – Rose-Cut Diamond Cluster Earrings; Rose-Cut Diamond Ring
  • Miley Cyrus - Neil LaneDiamond Pendant Earrings
  • Moran Atias - Chopard – Diamond Earrings
  • Natalie Portman - Kwiat – Deco Diamond Hair Pins and Diamond Hair Combs; 6 carat Diamond Drop Earrings; Vintage Diamond Cluster Ring
  • Nicole Kidman - Diamond waterfall earrings; Diamond Brooch in hair
  • *Penelope Cruz - Chopard – Diamond Stud Earrings (11 carats); Cushion-Cut Diamond Necklace (69 carats); Diamond Bracelets; Starburst Yellow Diamond Ring (21 carats)
  • Phoebe Cates - Fred Leighton – Diamond Arrow Pin in her hair; Diamond Drop Earrings; Diamond Bracelets; Diamond Rings
  • *Queen Latifah - William Goldberg – Diamond Mixed Cut Micro-Set Drop Earrings; Diamond Trilogy Oval Ring, over 11 carats
  • Reese Witherspoon - Fred Leighton – Diamond Triple Drop Earrings with 7 carat Old Mine Cut Drops; 19th Century Rose Cut Diamond and Blue Enamel Ring
  • Robert Downey Jr. – Cartier – Diamond and White Gold Pasha 42 Watch on Black Crocodile Strap
  • Robin Roberts - Lorraine Schwartz – Diamond and Pink Gold Caviar Drop Earrings; 2 Diamond and Pink Gold Caviar Bangles, Diamond and Pink Gold Mesh Cuff Bracelet; Diamond and Pink Gold Caviar Right Hand Ring
  • Robin Swicord (Nominated for Best Adapted Screenplay for “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button”) – Neil Lane – Diamond and Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelets; Diamond and Yellow Gold Ring
  • Robin Wright Penn – H. SternAres Diamond Earrings; Diamond Bracelet
  • Ryoko Hirosue – Van Cleef and ArpelsDiamond Linear Earrings; Diamond Wreath Necklace
  • Sally Bell (Heath Ledger’s Mother) – Fred Leighton – 1950’s Diamond Leaf Earrings; 1950’s Diamond Bracelet with Brown Diamonds; 3-Stone Diamond Ring; Diamond Band Ring
  • Sarah Jessica Parker – Fred Leighton – Diamond Flower Ear Clips; Diamond and Gold Arm Bangle; 9 carat Cushion-Cut Ring
  • *Taraji P. Henson – Fred Leighton – Diamond Pendant Earrings with 6 carat Cushion-Cut Drops; 19th Century Diamond Flower Necklace
  • Tilda Swinton - Fred Leighton – 9 Diamond and Multi-Colored Gold Bangle Bracelet
  • Tina Fey - Fred Leighton – Diamond Pendant Earrings; 19th Century Diamond Flower Bracelet
  • Academy Awards Trophy Presenter – Martin Katz – Diamond Pear Shape Drop Earrings; Diamond Rope Necklace with 100 carat Black Diamonds; 5 Diamond Bangles; Diamond Right Hand Ring
  • Viola Davis – Fred Leighton – 1930’s Diamond Stylized Hoop Earrings; Diamond Honey Comb Bracelet, 2 Vintage Diamond Bracelets; 1950’s Diamond Double Clip Brooch on her Dress
  • Virginia Madsen - Loree Rodkin – Diamond and Yellow Gold Multi-Estelle Princess Cross Earrings; Diamond and Yellow Gold Maltese Cross Bracelet; Diamond and Yellow Gold Etched Ring



*The Diamond Information Center (DIC) has purchased the rights to red carpet diamond photos to be used for editorial purposes.

For detailed descriptions and jeweler information, please see credit chart sent separately from this release.




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Move over diamonds, now there’s something 58% harder

Friday, February 20th, 2009

By Rick C. Hodgin


TG Daily


Thursday, February 19, 2009 00:01

Chicago (IL) – Diamonds are made from carbon atoms that have undergone a process aligning them in an isometric-hexoctahedral crystal lattice. Clear to yellow, sometimes flawless, diamonds are also the second most stable form of carbon (behind graphite). However, diamonds are no longer the hardest natural substance — at least not according to New Scientist. That honor now falls to lonsdaleite, which is 58% harder than diamonds.

Lonsdaleite is a form of hexagonal diamond made from the same carbon atoms as a regular isometric-hexoctahedral diamond, except that the carbon atoms are arranged into a different shape — which also causes it to have a yellow to brown translucent color. In nature, Lonsdaleite is extremely rare and often impure, making it somewhat less hard than diamonds. Lonsdaleite has been observed formed in meteorites containing graphite which have impacted on the Earth.

Pure lonsdaleite created in laboratories is up to 58% harder than diamonds. Researchers from the University of Nevada and the University of Shanghai have reported that in simulations, the material resists indentation at pressures of 152 GPa, whereas diamonds typically break apart at 97 GPa.

Another competing hard substance which also steals the crown away from diamonds is wurtzite boron nitride, which is 18% harder. Wurtzite boron nitride is formed naturally during volcanic eruptions under high temperature and pressure, though for commercial uses it is formed via detonation. Wurtzite boron nitride’s strength is derived from its atomic bonds which actually bend up to 90 degrees under stress. This relieves and distributes tension over a wider area. It can be created in either metal-like plate or regular crystal structures.

According to UK abrasives, Wurtzite boron nitride “is the next step in the boron nitride generation which includes a well-known superabrasive – cubic boron nitride, as well as, a graphite similar in structure – hexagonal boron nitride. This new material has a polycrystalline structure that provides superior cutting properties and, moreover, sharpens itself during cutting. Polycrystalline structure means plenty of crystals are bonded chemically together that work at the same time. In this case the material removal rate and finishing level of the Wurtzite Boron Nitride cannot be compared to even the cutting characteristics of other well-known materials.”

Wurtzite boron nitride might actually prove to be of greater commercial interest in specialty applications because, even though it is less hard than lonsdaleite, it is stable in oxygen at higher temperatures than diamonds, making it suitable for many dry-cut applications, and is relatively easy to manufacture en masse.

Still, given that diamonds are almost unimaginably plentiful, they aren’t likely to be supplanted for most applications any time soon.

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De Beers to Reduce Diamond Supply 50% on U.S. Slump

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

By Carli Lourens for Bloomberg

Jan. 21 (Bloomberg) — De Beers, the world’s largest diamond producer, will reduce the amount of rough gems offered to customers by about 50 percent until April after U.S. retail sales slumped over Christmas.

Retail sales in the U.S., the world’s largest diamond market, dropped by as much as 20 percent over Christmas and “underperformed” the company’s expectations, said Varda Shine, head of Johannesburg-based De Beers’s marketing unit. The drop in full-year U.S. sales was in “the high single digits,” Shine said in a speech yesterday, a copy of which was e-mailed today.

Consumers in the U.S., which accounts for about half of global retail sales, are reining in spending as the economy shrinks. ZAO Alrosa, Russia’s diamond monopoly, said last month it expects fourth-quarter sales last year to drop 31 percent below average quarterly levels. Toronto-based BRC DiamondCore Ltd. said last week it will extend a shutdown at its South African operations and start talks with labor unions over job cuts because of “depressed” diamond prices.

Global demand contracted marginally last year and will do so again this year, Shine said. Diamond prices fell about 11 percent in the last six months according to an index compiled by Polished Prices, which tracks prices.

“The diamond market will worsen before improving, simply because the chill of global recession is going to become increasingly evident in the form of accelerating job losses,” Des Kilalea, an analyst at RBC Capital Markets in London, wrote in a report yesterday. “People don’t rush out to buy luxury goods in a recession.”

‘Limited Market’

Generations have seen “world wars, a depression, and too many booms and busts to remember, but none of us have ever seen anything quite like this,” De Beers managing director Gareth Penny told customers at a function late yesterday. “There is no point in producing or trying to sell it when there is a limited market for it.”

De Beers has already started reducing capital expenditure, cutting discretionary spending and reviewing staffing levels across all operations, Penny said. The company’s production cuts will be “significant,” he said.

Market reports estimate De Beers will reduce annual output “well in excess of 30 percent,” RBC said in its report.

De Beers’ sales of rough diamonds, or gems that have yet to be cut or polished, climbed 10 percent to $3.3 billion in the first half. Demand growth in China, India and the Middle East helped counter lower gem sales in the U.S.

Anglo American Plc, which is based in London, owns 45 percent of De Beers with the rest owned by the Oppenheimer family and the government of Botswana.

Original Article on Bloomberg.com.