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	<title>Diamond Cutters International &#187; Reference</title>
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		<title>Platinum vs. White Gold</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/platinum-vs-white-gold-15/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/platinum-vs-white-gold-15/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Mar 2011 13:48:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[--]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=36881</guid>
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		<title>How To Clean A Diamond</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/how-to-clean-a-diamond/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/how-to-clean-a-diamond/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jul 2010 16:29:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Fred Cuellar illustrates the best new way to clean a diamond using Phillips most advanced toothbrush and how to make your own jewelry cleaning solution. 




		
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/h6HUMv1jiy8&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/h6HUMv1jiy8&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object></p>
<p>Fred Cuellar illustrates the best new way to clean a diamond using Phillips most advanced toothbrush and how to make your own jewelry cleaning solution. </br></p>


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		<title>Dangerous Metals: The Truth About Tungsten and Cobalt Wedding Bands</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/dangerous-metals-the-truth-about-tungsten-cobalt-unveiled/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/dangerous-metals-the-truth-about-tungsten-cobalt-unveiled/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Jul 2010 12:22:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/dangerous-metals-the-truth-about-tungsten-and-cobalt-unveiled/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Fred Cuellar, The Diamond Guy®, and Dr. Mark Mehaffey discuss the truth about removing wedding bands&#8211;including gold, platinum, silver, titanium, stainless steel, cobalt, and tungsten. The equipment to remove or cut tungsten and cobalt wedding rings are not as readily available as some have lead you to believe. Fred shows you how to remove these [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ro_0cNan5xM&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ro_0cNan5xM&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1?rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object></p>
<p>Fred Cuellar, The Diamond Guy®, and Dr. Mark Mehaffey discuss the truth about removing wedding bands&#8211;including gold, platinum, silver, titanium, stainless steel, cobalt, and tungsten. The equipment to remove or cut tungsten and cobalt wedding rings are not as readily available as some have lead you to believe. Fred shows you how to remove these tungsten and conbalt rings. </br></p>


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		<title>For Now or Forever</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/for-now-or-forever/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/for-now-or-forever/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Apr 2010 13:56:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
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		<title>The Day My World Changed (September 6th, 2005)</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/the-day-my-world-changed-september-6th-2005/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/the-day-my-world-changed-september-6th-2005/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 01 Mar 2009 20:18:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>tdomf_e012a</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reference]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bondable shapes]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[As of 2005, not all shapes are bondable.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>The Day Before</em></p>
<p>My father and I were going to New York to have ametting with the manager of DCI New York to see why clients were experiencing unusual delays on the processing of their orders. The meeting should have lasted only thirty minutes…it lasted nine hours.</p>
<p></p>
<p><em>September 6, 2005</em></p>
<p>The meeting was at our offices at 579 Fifth Avenue scheduled for 9:00am. We had the whole day for the meeting and whatever (shopping and eating) becuase we weren’t flying back until Wednesday, September 7. I had no idea when I walked into the office my life was going to forever change!</p>
<p></p>
<p><em>The Meeting</em></p>
<p>We exchange pleasantries for a while and then I got to the <br />
point of the meeting.</p>
<p>
Me: &#8216;Neil, as you know DCI New York is falling a little behind<br />
in filling all the orders, and we just want to see what&#8217;s up?&#8217;<br />
(I wanted to say &#8216;What&#8217;s up like the Budweiser commercials but <br />
realized it was a little lame to use a 7 year old bit regardless <br />
of how much I personally loved to say Wazzzzzup?!&#8217;).</p>
<p>Long Dramatic Pause&#8217;¦&#8217;¦.</p>
<p>Neil: &#8216;Fred, do you know how for 20 years you&#8217;ve been telling<br />
people to buy shy?&#8217;</p>
<p>Me: &#8216;Ah huh.&#8217;</p>
<p>Neil: &#8216;Well, they did. And now they&#8217;re all gone &#8212; <br />
the good quality ones.&#8217;</p>
<p>Me: &#8216;What do you mean they&#8217;re all gone?!&#8217;</p>
<p>Neil: &#8216;They are all gone! All the shy stones (.45 &#8216;&#8221; .49 ct, <br />
.65 &#8211; .69 ct, 1.45 &#8216;&#8221; 1.49 ct, 1.85 &#8216;&#8221; 1.95 ct, 2.85 ct &#8216;&#8221; 2.95 ct)<br />
are gone, and it&#8217;s not only those. All the full sizes over 3 <br />
carats are gone. The rough to cut 1.25 ct and 1.75 ct box<br />
radiants are gone. The rough to cut 65/65 princesses in any <br />
size are gone. The 65/65 Asschers are gone! Fred, they&#8217;re all gone!&#8217;</p>
<p>The conversation proceeded from there. For 9 hours, we tackled many questions. What rough was still available to fill current and future orders? What type of rationing was needed to stretch the current supply of &#8216;fulls&#8217;? A full is a hard weight diamond .50 ct, .75 ct, 1.0 ct, 1.50 ct, 2.0 ct, and rough to cut full sizes was still available. Important note: When I tell you, the reader, that the world is running out of diamonds, again, I am only referring to the good diamonds, not the commercial grade stuff<br />
that consolidators like Costco, Sam&#8217;s, Blue Nile, Zales, Bailey Banks &#038; Biddle, Mondera, or Dirt Cheap Diamonds sell. There is no shortage, nor will there ever be a shortage of commercial grade diamonds.</br></p>
<p>Everyone defines a &#8216;good&#8217; diamond as a diamond that holds or appreciates in value over time when you try to sell it. Commercial grade diamonds, on the secondary market, sell for only a small fraction of what you paid. That is also the case now for the fancy shapes (pear, marquise, emerald cut, asscher, oval, heart, trilliant, baguette), and melee. They have little or no secondary market value. The three shapes that will hold their value and/or appreciate over time are round, box radiant, and standard radiant. The top price you&#8217;ll see for any commercial grade, fancy shaped, or melee diamonds will rarely be a penny more than 19.7% of the original dollar spent. While a good diamond (white, eye clean, Class 1 or 2, non-fluorescent, natural, fully bonded) will always bring you even money (100% of what you paid) as long as the vendor you bought it from stays in business. Even if they don&#8217;t, you&#8217;ll at least get 40-45% of what you paid as dump value (the average is 60%) or 80-85% on the secondary market to an end consumer who is not looking to flip the rock. There is no question, if you are going buy a diamond, it makes no sense purchasing a crummy one with bogus &#8216;certificates&#8217; that don&#8217;t guarantee you anything. It leaves you holding a piece gravel if you ever want to part with your rock.</br></p>
<p>Anyway, this is what the market (world) is dealing with. Good diamonds in entire categories are extinct except the onesies and twosies, and what is left could be gone as early as 2010. </br></p>
<p>Related Article: <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/home/abn/?article=384&#038;p=default&#038;return=Diamond%20Articles&#038;returnurl=/index.php/diamond-articles&#038;" rel="nofollow" >Bonded Jewelers</a></br></p>
<div>
by Fred Cuellar, author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/index.php/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a></div>


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		<title>Diamond mining is not forever, SAfrica learns</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/diamond-mining-is-not-forever-safrica-learns/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/diamond-mining-is-not-forever-safrica-learns/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2009 20:03:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>tdomf_e012a</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reference]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[The glittering diamonds are almost gone and as the lustre fades on South Africa's Diamond Coast, desperate ghost towns are left clinging to the last signs of life.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote><p>By Fran Blandy (AFP)</br></p>
<p>KLEINZEE, South Africa — The glittering diamonds are almost gone and as the lustre fades on South Africa&#8217;s Diamond Coast, desperate ghost towns are left clinging to the last signs of life.</br></p>
<p>The heyday of diamond mining may be over, but the restoration of a once-pristine landscape along the country&#8217;s west coast should turn this wasteland of scarred earth into a tourist paradise.</br></p>
<p>Isolated under strict security for 80 years of mining, towering mine dumps reach hundreds of metres into the air along the coast, the site of one of the most ambitious mining restoration projects to date.</br></p>
<p>It&#8217;s hard to believe it by looking at the area now. The sole customer in a supermarket on a recent day in one of the mining towns, Kleinzee, said the industry has left it looking as if a &#8220;nuclear bomb was dropped on it.&#8221;</br></p>
<p>Since 2007 the world&#8217;s leading diamond company De Beers has drastically cut operations at its Namaqualand mines as the precious gem runs out, reducing staff from about 3,000 to 250.</br></p>
<p>Globally, known diamond reserves are expected to run out in 30 years.</br></p>
<p>Kleinzee, located about 600 kilometres (370 miles) north of Cape Town in the country&#8217;s biggest and most sparsely populated province of Northern Cape, is entirely owned by the diamond giant.</br></p>
<p>Schools, recreation centres and houses stand mostly empty.</br></p>
<p>Its mine has already shut down and residents wait desperately for officials to proclaim an end to its life as a privately owned mining town so individuals can buy homes themselves and try to breathe life back into business.</br></p>
<p>&#8220;All my friends lost their jobs. This is a mining town, what must they do here?&#8221; said local supermarket owner Ann Engelbrecht, whose sales have dropped 60 percent with only a trickle of tourists and locals sustaining her.</br></p>
<p>She took over the Spar in 2007 after working for De Beers since 1984, and says she has already had two heart attacks from the stress, making opening hours ever later and shutting down completely over weekends.</br></p>
<p>&#8220;It is just not worth it anymore. Business is so bad but I really believe if the town is proclaimed it will get better.&#8221;</br></p>
<p>De Beers, grappling with how to leave the town, is partnering with conservationists to reinvigorate the area through tourism, fish farming and other industries.</br></p>
<p>The project highlights increasing concerns about the environmental footprint left by mining and the responsibility of companies to mitigate it.</br></p>
<p>Gert Klopper, De Beers Namaqualand spokesman, says the company hopes the project will improve the image of the diamond industry, long blighted by conflict and violence.</br></p>
<p>&#8220;I think it&#8217;s the first time anywhere in the world that it (restoration) has taken place on such a large scale,&#8221; he tells AFP of the 463 million rand (56 million dollar, 40 million euro) project.</br></p>
<p>De Beers owns some 10 percent of South Africa&#8217;s 2,500-kilometre coastline, much of which has been extensively mined.</br></p>
<p>Conservation experts are now busy filling gaping holes and transplanting sensitive plant species to restore the vast plains to their former glory.</br></p>
<p>&#8220;The succulent Karoo is one of only two arid hotspots in the world with more than 4,500 plant species. The whole of Europe doesn&#8217;t have the same number of plant species,&#8221; says environmental officer Werner Nel.</br></p>
<p>Klopper notes that while some 10,000 hectares (25,000 acres) have been mined, a total of 90,000 hectares were restricted from the public for decades, meaning &#8220;huge tracts of land have been pristinely preserved.&#8221;</br></p>
<p>Thick and varied vegetation which comes alive with wildflowers in spring stretches for miles to sandy white dunes and idyllic beaches ideal for surfing.</br></p>
<p>With the rest of South Africa&#8217;s coast overdeveloped, it is hoped a new tourist attraction will be created along with hundreds of jobs in the most isolated corner of the country.</br></p>
<p>Sea water pumps designed for mining are now helping fill the pits, which are being turned into oyster and abalone farms.</br></p>
<p>Already exposed bedrock is being eyed for nearly 100 wind turbines along the wind-blown coastline &#8212; to create much needed renewable energy in the power-strapped country.</br></p>
<p>Other plans are underway to create land art, a marina, seawater greenhouses and hiking trails, and even to turn one massive pit into a concert venue.</br></p>
<p>&#8220;It will take 10, 20, 30 years to get to the point that you can&#8217;t see mining happened here,&#8221; says Andre Meyer of the Nurture, Restore, Innovate project which is restoring the land for De Beers.</br></p>
<p>Copyright © 2009 AFP. All rights reserved.</br></p></blockquote>
<p><a href="http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5jUkRBA0CQ_m4RT8bUz3THW1FvhXQ" rel="nofollow" >Click here for original article.</a></br></p>


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		<title>Palladium VP (The New Palldium)</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/palladium-vp-the-new-palldium/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/palladium-vp-the-new-palldium/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Dec 2008 15:38:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reference]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=435</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Readers will recall that when platinum prices started spiking a few years ago, that manufacturers were quick to tout alternative metals that could offer all the benefits of platinum (strength, durability, rarity, beauty) at an affordable price.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Readers will recall that when platinum prices started spiking a few years ago, that manufacturers were quick to tout alternative metals that could offer all the benefits of platinum (strength, durability, rarity, beauty) at an affordable price. White gold, while always a good stand-by, still couldn’t fill platinum’s shoes due to discoloring problems associated with mixing pure gold with pot metal alloys such as copper, nickel, and zinc.</div>
<div>The industry’s “knee jerk” solution was to sell diluted platinum or palladium (a platinum metals group; cousin to platinum) to hit consumer price points that platinum could no longer meet. Doped platinum (585 platinum) had a short life when consumers and consumer advocate groups stood up against the inferior product, and the huge manufacturing plants that invested millions in doped platinum, quickly went out of business.  Mexican palladium as it has been so eloquently nicknamed, has proved resilient through vendors such as Kay’s, Zales, and online discounters looking to make a quick buck without informing the consumer of the downside of manufacturing palladium in an unsterile environment with poor quality control. Consumer complaints of rings breaking, cracking and just falling apart within the first couple of years are piling up by the thousands.</div>
<div>In my articles “Platinum Doping I &amp; II” and “Palladium is not your pal”, I pointed out the pitfalls of using inferior metals or quality metals poorly melded together. All that said, Novell, the “Rolls Royce” of wedding bands, has developed a palladium product called Palladium VP (which stands for vacuum poured and vacuum pressed.) The gurus at Novell found a way to take a mixture that is 95% palladium and 5% ruthenium and iridium and vacuum pour it in a sterile environment so neither air or foreign contaminants could enter the mix. Then the product is vacuum pressed to create the tightest sub-atomic bond possible to produce one tough band! The Palladium VP products are only available in men’s and some ladies wedding bands but from my vantage point they have hit a home run! The old palladium problems of being too soft, pitting, and cracking, have all disappeared with Palladium VP! Novell has literally created a product that is hypoallergenic, durable, beautiful, and rare, just like platinum, at half the price! Palladium VP also comes with all the guarantees you’d expect&#8211;lifetime sizing guarantees and 100% destruction guarantees! You can run it over with a truck and they will still replace it for free (guarantees vary from vendor to vendor). Palladium VP fits the gap between $500-$700 white gold gents’ wedding band and the $2000-$3000 gents platinum band, coming in at a comfortable $1000-$1400 price point for an average 6mm heavy comfort fit band!</div>
<div>The question I keep getting asked is “how do I know if I’m getting sold Palladium VP vs. it’s inferior, south of the border counter part?” Well, it’s simple! Here’s what to look for:</div>
<ul type="square">
<li>All Palladium VP is stamped Pal-VP</li>
<li>All Palladium VP products come with a life time destruction guarantee and sizing guarantee</li>
</ul>
<p>And finally, look at the price! Counterfeiters could take Mexican Palladium and stamp it VP but they won’t be able to sell it at white gold prices ($500-700.00). If the vendor you’re thinking of buying from says they can sell you a 6mm half round heavy comfort fit Palladium VP ring for under a grand, they are probably trying to pull the wool over your eyes. As long as platinum prices are overly inflated, I think it’s only natural to look for an alternative. Palladium VP is to platinum what Ethanol is to fossil fuel gasoline. It’s just a smart way to go!</p>
<div> </div>
<div>by Fred Cuellar, author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/diamond_education/ask/add.asp" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a></div>


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		<title>Prostituting Green</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/prostituting-green/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/prostituting-green/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Dec 2008 15:31:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reference]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=431</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you go to the "Going Green" website, you will find the following list of things to do to help the planet from A to Z.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>If you go to the <a href="http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/vines/4990/gglist.html" rel="nofollow" >&#8220;Going Green&#8221;</a> website, you will find the following list of things to do to help the planet from A to Z.</div>
<p> </p>
<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="606">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="193" height="342" align="left" valign="top">
<ul>
<li>Adopt something</li>
<li>Avoid fast food</li>
<li>Bike instead of ride</li>
<li>Boycott a product</li>
<li>Buy products made of recycled paper</li>
<li>Change a light bulb</li>
<li>Clean up a stream or park</li>
<li>Close the refrigerator door</li>
<li>Collect aluminum cans</li>
<li>Contribute to a good cause</li>
<li>Create a compost pile</li>
<li>Cut down on packaging</li>
<li>Donate your toys to a worthy cause</li>
<li>Don&#8217;t buy aerosols</li>
<li>Draw up a petition</li>
<li>Eat organic produce</li>
<li>Elect &#8220;green&#8221; candidates</li>
<li>Feed the birds</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td width="243" align="left" valign="top">
<ul>
<li>Find out how to dispose of hazardous waste</li>
<li>Go to the zoo</li>
<li>Grow a garden</li>
<li>Have a &#8220;green&#8221; picnic</li>
<li>Hold on to balloons</li>
<li>Identify energy wasters</li>
<li>Insulate your home</li>
<li>Invite a speaker</li>
<li>Join an environmental group</li>
<li>Keep the car at home</li>
<li>Learn about your community</li>
<li>Look at labels</li>
<li>Make scratch pads</li>
<li>Notify the authorities</li>
<li>Observe the three R&#8217;s (Refuse, Reuse, Recycle)</li>
<li>Organize your friends</li>
<li>Plant a tree</li>
<li>Pro test animal cruelty</li>
</ul>
</td>
<td width="170" align="left" valign="top">
<ul>
<li>Quit throwing away batteries</li>
<li>Recycle everything</li>
<li>Reuse a bag</li>
<li>Spend your money wisely</li>
<li>Stop a leak</li>
<li>Support green companies</li>
<li>Take a hike</li>
<li>Talk to your parents/children</li>
<li>Turn off the lights</li>
<li>Use recycled paper</li>
<li>Visit a recycling center</li>
<li>Work for the environment</li>
<li>Write a letter</li>
<li>Exercise your rights</li>
<li>Yell at a litterer</li>
<li>Zero in on specifics</li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div>Whew! It&#8217;s quite a list! If you are like most people, you had a difficult time just reading the list much less actually trying to do everything on it! But if all of us just did a few of these things, there is no doubt our earth would be a better place. My beef, however, is with companies that stamp themselves green or eco-friendly and are just using &#8220;green&#8221; as a way to line their pockets with green!  Recently there is talk about buying an eco-friendly or &#8220;green&#8221; engagement ring. This would be a diamond that came from Canada, making the buyer feel confident its a conflict-free diamond. It would have a setting that was cast from recycled gold or platinum so the earth doesn&#8217;t get re-injured or scarred with the waste that is incurred during mining. The term &#8220;dirty gold&#8221; is being thrown around to describe anybody who uses new gold versus recycled gold! Let me tell you, I have seen a lot of scams in my life, but hustling people out of their good, hard earned money, to buy an inferior product that isn&#8217;t actually better for the environment, is nuts! For starters, not everyone agrees that buying Canadian is all green because the mining in Canada is displacing Polar Bears. In recycling gold, even if it is processed correctly, it will still be cut with new copper, nickel, zinc, palladium, etc, which isn&#8217;t recycled and strips the ground in the identical manner that mining for precious metals and coal does.</div>
<div>Look, I&#8217;m the first person to agree with the idea of loving our Earth like we love ourselves. But the second someone uses a good cause to rip people off, I have a problem accepting its sincerity.  There is no such thing as an environmentally friendly engagement ring. New gold, old gold, Canadian diamond, Botswana diamond; it doesn&#8217;t make a difference! If the goal is to not hurt the earth at all, do not buy ANY jewelry. And while you&#8217;re at it, don&#8217;t buy any vegetables because it, too, damages the earth. Don&#8217;t buy any clothing because of the sweatshops and working conditions overseas.  In fact, if you really want to help the earth, stop consuming anything. The longer you live the more you will affect the environment. Should we outlaw old people? My point is we are consumers. As long as we are alive we will consume something. Once we consume it, we take it away from someone or something. That&#8217;s life! If we just used our common sense, we can adopt a balance between nature and ourselves. It may be practical for you to sell your car and bike everywhere but it probably isn’t. Doing what we can, even if it is just small things, can make a world of difference.  But the minute we let snake oil salesmen try to sell us gold that has a five-times higher likelihood of falling apart and diamonds that may or may not have come from a particular country under the guise of being “green” is just taking our common sense and throwing it away. And as everyone knows, you always want to recycle common sense. </div>
<div>by Fred Cuellar, author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/diamond_education/ask/add.asp" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a></div>


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		<title>Dirty Diamonds</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/dirty-diamonds/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/dirty-diamonds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Dec 2008 17:16:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reference]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=485</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A dirty diamond knows no class!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>A dirty diamond knows no class.</strong></div>
<p>
<div>Regardless of what anybody tells you, the maximum                 light return for any diamond in any shape is 91% (Give or take .1).                 Class 1; A.G.S. 000; American Ideal; Kaplan; 8-Star; Hearts on Fire                 or High Definition, 91% is all you get. In the end mathematician                 Tolkowsky’s numbers for rounds hold up and mathematician R.W.                 Ditchburn Ph. D proved in his monumental book &#8220;Light&#8221;                 that the same concepts could be applied to any shape diamond. In                 simplistic terms you need three things to appreciate the sparkle                 of a diamond:
</div>
<blockquote><p>
  
<div>1. An observer<br />
    2. A diamond<br />
    3. A light source
  </div>
</blockquote>
<p>
<div>Remove any one and you’re left pondering                 does a tree that falls in the forest make a sound if there is no                 one there to hear it. Or better said how much beauty can a diamond                 possess in the dark or how well received can a diamond be if never                 viewed?
</div>
<p>
<div>I’ve spent the better part of my adult life                 helping people critique, evaluate and eventually choose the best                 diamond for them. With each passing day, the diamond buying public                 is becoming more savvy. However, many of you are buying magnificent                 diamonds, then allowing them to gather so much soot, dirt, oil,                 hand lotion, soap, hair spray and grease that any benefit from buying                 a well-proportioned, white, eye-clean, gigantic rock is negated.                 Please remember this fact: A dirty diamond knows no class! Repeat                 it again, A DIRTY DIAMOND KNOWS NO CLASS. It doesn’t make a                 difference whether you have a well-proportioned, Class 1 versus                 a poorly proportioned Class 4, if you don’t keep it clean.                 If you as the wearer of a new diamond aren’t prepared to clean                 your diamond everyday, day in and day out, religiously, then throw                 my book away or anybody else’s book that you have read on diamonds!                 It won’t make one bit of difference what clarity or color grade                 you have if you don’t keep it clean! And I’m not talking                 once a week clean or clean it when it gets dirty clean. I’m                 talking EVERDAY clean! Taking 60 seconds of your day to drop your                 ring in an ultrasonic cleaner. If you’re not willing to do                 that, you’ve flushed a lot of money away.
</div>
<p>
<div>If you’re a man reading this and you’re                 about to plunk 6K down for a 1carat diamond and you know your fiancé                 to be can’t keep her own car clean much less a new diamond                 clean, then stop!! Re-evaluate your purchase. When the only benefit                 of a good diamond is increased light return (when clean) then don’t                 purchase a good quality diamond if the diamond can’t be properly                 maintained. At the end of any given day, even the 91% diamonds will                 have only 67% light return due to the oil and dirt that accumulates                 from normal wear. Within a week the diamond will look like a tropical                 depression has moved in, hazy and foggy with poor visibility. For                 off-makes (poorly proportioned stones) the effect is more rapid;                 within two days lifeless city! But in the end if neither the cheap                 half-price Class 4 or the expensive sparkly dynamo is cleaned, they                 will look the same!
</div>
<p>
<div>I tell my clients everyday, a great diamond is                 like a battery operated toy at Christmas. It’s fun and exciting                 as long as you’ve got working batteries in the toy. Allowing                 a diamond to get dirty is like removing the batteries from the toy.                 Please keep your diamonds clean and if not, trade them in for crummy                 ones and pocket the savings.
</div>
<p>
<div>Remember: A dirty diamond knows no class.</p>
<p></br><br />
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<p>
<div>The Diamond Guy</div>
<p>
<div>by Fred Cuellar, author of the best-selling book                 &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask                 the Diamond Guy®</a> </div>


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		<title>Parts of the Stone</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/parts-of-the-stone/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/parts-of-the-stone/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Dec 2008 17:15:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Reference]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=483</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[An up-close look at all the important parts of a diamond. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>Subheadline</strong></div>
<p>
<div> HERE ARE THREE                 BASIC PARTS TO EVERY CUT DIAMOND:</div>
<ul>
<li>The crown (top)</li>
<li>The girdle (around the middle)</li>
<li>The pavilion (the bottom).</li>
</ul>
<p></p>
<div><strong>CROWN </strong>The crown consists of a large flat area on top called                 the table, and a number of facets. As the diamond catches the light,                 the job of the crown is to split the light entering the diamond                 into white light, which gives the stone its brilliance, and colored                 light, which gives it fire, or dispersion.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>GIRDLE </strong>The girdle is the thin, unpolished band around the widest                 part of the diamond. The function of the girdle is to protect the                 edge of the stone from chipping (even though diamond is the hardest                 natural substance on earth, it can be chipped!)</div>
<p>
<div><strong>PAVILION </strong>The pavilion has the most important job, which is to                 reflect the light that passes through the crown back into your eyes.                 Think of it as a cone lined with mirrors. The light enters the diamond                 through the crown, splits into white and colored light, bounces                 off the facets of the pavilion back up through the crown, where                 you see it as sparkle! But to achieve the maximum sparkle —                 that magic combination of brilliance and fire — the diamond                 must be well cut and cut in the proper proportions. </div>
<p>
<div>THE SIZE OF THE                 TABLE, THE SYMMETRY OF THE FACETS, THE THICKNESS OF THE GIRDLE,                 AND THE ANGLE OF THE PAVILION MUST ALL WORK TOGETHER TO GIVE THE                 DIAMOND THE SPARKLE YOU WANT.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>TABLE </strong>The size of the table, as a percentage of the crown,                 is important because it determines the amount of brilliance, or                white light, the diamond will reflect. For example, if the table                is 60% of the diameter of the crown, 60% of the light you see will                be brilliance and 40% will be fire, or dispersion. Avoid a diamond                with a table area of 65% or higher. It will give the diamond too                much brilliance, and not enough fire&#8211;and the diamond will look                fuzzy or foggy. (The only exception to this rule is emerald and                rectangular cut diamonds that can have a 65% table. This includes                all princess cuts, quadrillions and radiants.) HERE&#8217;S THE FORMULA:                Table area                53-60% = GREAT! Table area 61-64% = GOOD! Table area 65%+ =                 except emerald and rectangular cuts.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>FACETS </strong>The typical diamond is cut with 58 facets, 33 on the                 crown and 25 on the pavilion. On a well-proportioned stone, these                 facets will be uniform and symmetrical. If they are not, the diamond&#8217;s                 ability to refract and reflect light will suffer. Furthermore, a                 poorly-cut diamond just won&#8217;t look right to the eye. The sad fact                 is, 75% of all rounds and 88% of all other shapes on the market                 are poorly proportioned! Poorly proportioned stones are more profitable                 for the dealer, because they retain more of the weight of the rough                 or uncut diamond.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>GIRDLE </strong>You don&#8217;t want a diamond with a girdle that&#8217;s too thin,                 or one that&#8217;s too thick — you want one that&#8217;s just right! The                 whole purpose of the girdle is to protect the edge of the stone                 from chipping. A girdle that&#8217;s too thin doesn&#8217;t give enough protection.                 A girdle that&#8217;s too thick does protect against chipping, but it                 doesn&#8217;t look so good. So you want a diamond with a medium girdle,                 neither too thin nor too thick. How do you tell? Look at the diamond                 from the side. If it looks like there&#8217;s a white chalk line around                 the middle of the stone, the girdle is too thick. If you don&#8217;t see                 any girdle at all with the naked eye, look at the same area of the                 stone with a 10X loupe. If you can&#8217;t see a girdle with the loupe,                 it&#8217;s too thin. </div>
<p>
<div><strong>PAVILION </strong>The job of the pavilion is most important of all: to reflect                light. The light enters the diamond through the table and the facets                of the crown, passes through the diamond, and is reflected back                by the facets of the pavilion. Here&#8217;s the important part: The angle                of the pavilion for a round diamond must be between 40-41.5 degrees.                40.75 degrees is perfect. For marquise, pear, and ovals, the perfect                angle perfect angle is 40 degrees, but an acceptable range is 39.25&#8211;40.75                degrees. For emerald and rectangular cuts, perfect is 45.05 and                an acceptable range is 43.3-46.8 degrees. If the pavilion angle                is not exactly right it will not reflect the light properly, and                the diamond won&#8217;t have the sparkle it should. In a round diamond,                there&#8217;s a dramatic loss of sparkle if the angle is even a tenth                of a degree above 41.5 or below 40 degrees. In marquise, pear,                or oval, maximum sparkle is achieved with a 40 degree pavilion                angle, but the angle can be increased or decreased by as much as                three-fourths of a degree with only a 10% loss of sparkle. Emerald                and rectangular cut diamonds have the widest allowable variance                of 1.75 degrees. Each extreme will also cause a 10 percent loss                of sparkle. </div>
<p>
<div><strong>CROWN                 ANGLE </strong>The angle of the crown is also important, but it                 doesn&#8217;t have to be quite as precise as the pavilion angle. The angle                 of the crown should be 32-35 degrees. If it&#8217;s smaller than 32 degrees,                 the diamond is what we call spread-cut. This makes the table area                 too large and the girdle too thin, and we already know what problems                 that causes. If the angle of the crown is above 35 degrees, it makes                 the diamond &#8220;top heavy.&#8221; This results in a smaller diameter,                 making the diamond look smaller than it really is. The last thing                 you want is a one-carat diamond that looks like a 3/4 carat!</div>
<p>
<div><strong>CULET </strong>Finally, at the very bottom of the diamond&#8211;the base                 of the pavilion&#8211;there may be a small facet called the culet. If                 this facet is too large, when you look straight down through the                 table it will look like the diamond has a hole in the middle. Make                 sure the stone has no culet or a very small culet. </div>
<p>
<div><strong>TWO                 OTHER IMPORTANT DIAMOND MEASUREMENTS </strong>Two other measurements                 to consider are: total depth and length-to-width ratio.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>TOTAL                 DEPTH</strong> is a simple, straightforward measurement: take                 the height of the stone and divide it by the diameter of the stone.                For a fancy stone, the diameter is measured at its widest part.                The answer should be in the 56%-61% range. If it&#8217;s not, it means                there&#8217;s something wrong with the crown angle and/or the pavilion                angle, or the girdle thickness. (The only exception to this                rule is emerald or rectangular cut diamonds that can have a total                depth of 65%.)</div>
<p>
<div><strong>THE                 LENGTH-TO-WIDTH RATIO</strong> is used to determine if a fancy-shaped                 diamond (anything other than round) is well-proportioned. For example,                 we don&#8217;t want to buy a marquise that is so skinny it looks like                 a banana, or one that&#8217;s so fat it looks like a football. Pleasing                 proportions aside, the length-to-width ratio also affects a phenomenon                 known as the bow-tie. Let me explain.</div>
<p>
<div>Fancy shapes are                 not symmetrical —  only a round is. And because fancy                 stones aren&#8217;t symmetrical, they all have a bow-tie — two triangular                 shadows in the middle of the diamond where light leaks out the bottom.                 If the length-to-width ratio is off, it will intensify the bow-tie                 in the stone! For a marquise diamond, the length should be no less                 than 1.75 times the width, and no more than 2 times the width. For                 pear shapes, the length should be no less than 1.5 times the width,                 and no more than 1.75 times the width. For emerald and oval shapes,                 the length should be no less than approximately 1.3 times the width,                 and no more than 1.75 times the width. </div>
<p>
<div><strong>PROPORTIONS                 MADE EASY </strong>GIA has made it easier to determine if a diamond                 is well-proportioned by dividing all cut diamonds into four classes.                 Essentially, Class One and Class Two diamonds are well-proportioned;                 Class Three and Class Four diamonds are not. Class One diamonds                 are investment-quality stones, beautifully proportioned and priced                 to match. If your objective is to buy a beautiful diamond to wear,                 Class Two is fine. </div>
<p>
<div><strong>FRED&#8217;S                 ADVICE: </strong>Don&#8217;t go below Class Two. And if the jeweler                 doesn&#8217;t know what the GIA classes are, move on! </div>
<p>
<div><strong>PROPORTION                 AND PRICE </strong>A poorly proportioned diamond is worth as much                 as 40% less than a well proportioned stone. One reason for the difference                 in worth is that it takes a 3-carat rough, which is a diamond as                 it&#8217;s found in nature, to produce a well proportioned 1-carat cut                 stone. But it only takes a 2-carat rough to produce a poorly proportioned                 1-carat stone. A poorly proportioned diamond will not sparkle nearly                 as much as a well proportioned diamond. If a diamond is poorly proportioned,                 only 35-40% of the light that enters it will reflect back up into                 your True Love&#8217;s eyes, while a well proportioned diamond will reflect                 close to 90% of the light. A woman wants a diamond to be &#8220;big,                 clean, white and sparkly,&#8221; and it won&#8217;t sparkle unless it&#8217;s                 well proportioned.</div>
<p>
<div>by Fred Cuellar,                 author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/diamond_education/ask/add.asp" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a> </div>


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