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	<title>Diamond Cutters International &#187; Understanding the Diamond Trade</title>
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		<title>False Promise</title>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 23 May 2011 12:53:17 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[&#8220;How a gem expert wound up with a fake, and what you can learn from her experience.&#8221;
By Susan M Neider, Barron&#8217;s Penta, May 21, 2011.





		
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			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&#8220;How a gem expert wound up with a fake, and what you can learn from her experience.&#8221;<br />
By Susan M Neider, <em>Barron&#8217;s Penta</em>, May 21, 2011.<br />
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		<title>The &#8216;Blood Diamond&#8217; Resurfaces</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Jun 2010 14:51:01 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[By MICHAEL ALLEN from Wall Street Journal
CAFUNFO, Angola—On paper, Angola is a poster child for the global effort to keep &#8220;blood diamonds&#8221; out of the world&#8217;s jewelry stores.
International pressure helped end a vicious civil war a decade ago by strangling the ability of rebels to trade diamonds for weapons. Angola is now a leading member [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By MICHAEL ALLEN from Wall Street Journal</p>
<blockquote><p>CAFUNFO, Angola—On paper, Angola is a poster child for the global effort to keep &#8220;blood diamonds&#8221; out of the world&#8217;s jewelry stores.</p>
<p>International pressure helped end a vicious civil war a decade ago by strangling the ability of rebels to trade diamonds for weapons. Angola is now a leading member of the so-called Kimberley Process, an industry-wide effort to prevent commerce in rough diamonds by insurgent groups. Today, Angola is the world&#8217;s fifth-largest diamond producer by value, and its gems are coveted for their size and purity.</p>
<p>But a visit to Angola&#8217;s diamond heartland reveals that plenty of blood still spills over those precious stones. Here in the sprawling jungle of northeast Angola, a violent economy prevails in which thousands of peasant miners eke out a living searching for diamonds with shovels and sieves. Because they lack government permits, miners and their families say they are routinely beaten and shaken down for bribes by soldiers and private security guards—and, in extreme cases, killed. </p>
</blockquote>
<p><strong>The Kimberly Process has never been more than a country of origin repackaging and rubber stamp. &#8211;Fred Cuellar</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>This sort of violence, which has made headlines in nearby Zimbabwe, is threatening to tear the Kimberley Process apart. Diamond retailers can ill afford more bad publicity about tainted stones. But many of Africa&#8217;s diamond-producing nations are wary about any effort to beef up the industry&#8217;s policing of human rights.</p>
<p>Around Angola&#8217;s mines, tales of confrontation abound. In an interview with The Wall Street Journal, Linda Moisés da Rosa, 55 years old, denounced the killings of her two sons, both diamond miners. In September, she said, Angolan soldiers descended on a large mine near here to chase away diggers. When some refused to leave, she said, the soldiers caved in the mine, burying alive around 45 men, including her son Pereira Eduardo Antonio, 21. &#8220;These kids were stubborn,&#8221; she said, adding that the soldiers said that the killings &#8220;should serve as a lesson to anyone who wants to come dig here again.&#8221; </p>
<p>In February, she said, her oldest son, 33-year-old Tito Eduardo, the family&#8217;s sole breadwinner, got into a dispute with private security guards at another mining site. She said the guards had agreed to let local diggers sift gravel for diamonds in exchange for around $30 a day. They accused her son of failing to pay the bribe, and when he argued back, she said, &#8220;they killed him with a machete.&#8221;</p>
<p>Military officials didn&#8217;t respond to requests for comment. Angola&#8217;s secretary of state for human rights, António Bento Bembe, blames his nation&#8217;s long civil war for creating a climate of abuse. &#8220;I know lots of these cases happen, and I know of many other cases you haven&#8217;t heard of yet,&#8221; he said in an interview in Luanda, Angola&#8217;s capital. &#8220;It is urgent to cultivate a culture of human rights.&#8221;</p>
<p>The issue has plunged the Kimberley Process into the worst crisis in its brief history. Born at a time of great bloodshed on the African continent, the 75-nation Kimberley Process was initially lauded for its commitment to human rights. Rebel movements had seized control of diamond regions in Angola, Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of Congo and used the gems to finance marauding guerrilla armies. Facing a public-relations nightmare, world diamond companies agreed to buy rough stones only if they are certified by internationally recognized governments. The Kimberley Process says well over 99% of the world&#8217;s rough-diamond trade is now &#8220;conflict-free.&#8221;</p>
</blockquote>
<p><strong>The Kimberly Process was destined to fail because you can’t have an industry regulate itself. It’s back to the fox guarding the hen house. Self-regulation doesn’t work when there are piles of money on the table.  &#8211;Fred Cuellar</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>But critics say there&#8217;s a big loophole in that definition: It doesn&#8217;t take into account human-rights abuses in diamond territory controlled by governments themselves. &#8220;The Kimberley Process cut the financial lifeline of rebels, but at the same time it gave legitimacy to corrupt governments that abuse their own people,&#8221; says Rafael Marques, a human-rights activist who has worked extensively in northeastern Angola. </p>
<p>Much of the recent controversy is focused on Zimbabwe, where the group Human Rights Watch last year reported that government soldiers massacred over 200 people in a fight to control diamond fields in the east of the country, raped local women and press-ganged peasants into mining work. The Kimberley Process temporarily suspended exports from the area on the grounds that the turmoil was allowing undocumented stones to be smuggled into the world market. Last month, a monitor installed by the Kimberley Process recommended that the ban be lifted, kicking off a fierce debate. A Kimberley Process committee has been deliberating the recommendation and the issue will be taken up in a meeting of the entire group in Tel Aviv starting Monday.</p>
<p>Global Witness, a human-rights organization that helped conceive the Kimberley Process, called for Zimbabwe to be suspended from the group. &#8220;Thanks to the impunity and violence in Zimbabwe, blood diamonds are back on the international market,&#8221; said Elly Harrowell, a Global Witness activist.</p>
<p>Jewelers are starting to worry that the bad publicity could spook consumers. Matthew Runci, chief executive of Jewelers of America, a trade group which represents jewelry chains from Tiffany &#038; Co. to Zale Corp., says the Kimberley Process should either figure out a way to incorporate human-rights monitoring into its oversight of member countries or invite an outside organization to do it for them. &#8220;It&#8217;s essential that the public&#8217;s confidence in diamonds be maintained at a high level,&#8221; he says. Once a diamond has been cut and polished, it&#8217;s virtually impossible for the consumer to tell its country of origin.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><strong>Tiffany’s can’t take the human rights stage and at the same time run sweatshops out of Botswana. &#8211;Fred Cuellar</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>Cecilia Gardner, a former New York federal prosecutor who serves as the general counsel of the World Diamond Council, says the Kimberley Process is a voluntary organization and isn&#8217;t equipped to enforce human-rights compliance. &#8220;We don&#8217;t have an army, we don&#8217;t have a police force,&#8221; she says. </p>
<p>In Angola, which far overshadows Zimbabwe in importance to the jewelry market, the Kimberley Process appears to have little appetite for human-rights issues. Last August, when a Kimberley Process peer-review team arrived to check the country&#8217;s compliance procedures, Angolan forces were just mopping up a major operation to expel some 30,000 illegal Congolese miners from Angolan territory near here. According to a U.S. State Department report citing local media and nongovernmental organizations, military and police &#8220;arbitrarily beat and raped detainees&#8221; and forced them to march to the border without food or water. The government has denied committing abuses and says the army was merely securing the nation&#8217;s borders.</p>
<p>A confidential Kimberley Process report on the review visit makes no mention of alleged human-rights abuses, although it criticizes Angola for failing to present a plan to better document the output of peasant mining. The group spent just two days in Lunda Norte, an area near the Congo border that has become a flashpoint for clashes between diggers and security forces. According to a draft of the internal report, the delegation intended to visit the site of a large illegal mining operation but was thwarted by &#8220;a last-minute decision to participate in a graduation ceremony for new border patrol security officers.&#8221; As the team was preparing to depart, the chairman of the Kimberley Process at the time, Namibian politician Bernhard Esau, pronounced the visit a success and brushed off questions about alleged abuses of peasant miners. &#8220;The Kimberley Process is not a human-rights organization,&#8221; he told reporters.</p>
<p>The roots of Angola&#8217;s current blood-diamond problems have much to do with geology. Unlike in Botswana and South Africa, where multinational corporations use heavy machinery to extract diamonds out of deep shafts, much of Angola&#8217;s diamond reserves are alluvial, meaning the stones have been washed out of the earth and scattered across the countryside. They&#8217;re available to anyone with a shovel and wood-framed sieve, and are difficult for mining companies to secure. More than a million people world-wide earn a living from artisanal mining in alluvial fields, including tens of thousands in Angola alone.</p>
<p>Angola&#8217;s artisanal miners, known in Portuguese as garimpeiros, played a pivotal role in the country&#8217;s civil war, which lasted for 27 years and left at least a half-million people dead. U.S.-backed troops of the Union for the Total Independence of Angola, or UNITA, fighting to depose a Soviet-supported socialist government, controlled much of the country&#8217;s diamond territory. To fund their war effort, they enlisted peasant diggers from here as well as neighboring Zaire, now known as the Democratic Republic of the Congo.</p>
<p>While UNITA forces committed plenty of atrocities, some people here in Cafunfo say they generally treated garimpeiros fairly. They allowed diggers to keep a percentage of the diamonds they found and established an immigration policy to bring in Congolese workers on 30-day permits, says Enoque Jeremias, a local human-rights investigator. &#8220;It was a fair system,&#8221; he adds.</p>
<p>The war&#8217;s end led to a surge in diamond production, as large mining companies dusted off old claims and launched new operations. Among the players are Odebrecht SA of Brazil, Russia&#8217;s state-owned Alrosa; and a company controlled by Israeli diamond magnate Lev Leviev, all of which operate in joint ventures with the government diamond company Endiama.</p>
<p>But the garimpeiros were hardly prepared to put away their shovels. There&#8217;s little agriculture here and almost no jobs outside of the mining sector. Plus, vast parts of the countryside haven&#8217;t even been explored yet, much less mined. The peasants proved adept at finding diamond deposits that the big companies missed, and this so-called informal production continued to account for more than one-quarter of the country&#8217;s diamond exports, according to the Partnership Africa Canada, an Ottawa-based nongovernmental agency that deals with mining issues.</p>
<p>To soak up those diamonds, Angola authorized foreign-run buying operations to be established in the bush. U.S. diamond giant Lazare Kaplan International Inc. became a fixture in the area, signing a technical agreement with the government to set up buying houses. Lazare Kaplan says it let the agreement expire in 2008, when world diamond prices collapsed, and is now winding down operations in Angola. Lazare Kaplan Chairman Maurice Tempelsman, the late-life companion of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, says the company was trying to bring development to the area and help strengthen Angola&#8217;s Kimberley Process controls. &#8220;I am strongly committed to the protection of human rights,&#8221; Mr. Tempelsman says, adding: &#8220;I believe in this imperfect world, involvement in trying to bring about constructive change is the best course.&#8221; </p>
<p>Lazare Kaplan&#8217;s withdrawal has left a wide-open field for other buyers, including a company controlled by Israel&#8217;s Mr. Leviev, as well as a flood of newcomers from West Africa and the Middle East. Their storefronts line the muddy streets of Cafunfo, trying to outdo each other with mirror-signed bling. </p>
<p>For Ahmad Mouein, a Lebanese buyer who bills himself as &#8220;Boss Mouein,&#8221; it&#8217;s a great business opportunity despite the recession in the diamond market. &#8220;Sometimes a digger here can sell you a $500,000 stone for $5,000, $10,000,&#8221; he marvels. He says the Kimberley Process hasn&#8217;t succeeded in its primary mission of halting smuggling. &#8220;Kimberley or not Kimberley, my friend, for the diamond, you can do what you want.&#8221;</p>
<p>By many accounts, the presence of these buying houses has only fanned the violence by encouraging more peasants to get into the mining business at the same time that government security forces have been tasked with stopping them. </p>
<p>At one such illegal mine, an hour&#8217;s motorcycle ride over trails outside of Cafunfo, a Dantesque scene unfolds. Perhaps 500 young men are clambering over a vast pit dug deep into the red earth. They&#8217;ve been at it for a year now, and figure they have months to go until they hit a vein of gravel they believe will contain diamonds. Their tools are rudimentary—pikes and shovels—and the work is backbreaking, alleviated only by the homegrown marijuana many smoke and the small sachets of alcohol that can be had everywhere for a dollar.</p>
<p>They live on the site in homemade tents and work in shifts. To support themselves, they say, they make agreements with buyers, especially the West Africans, to split the take.</p>
<p>Caxaculo Milonga, 44, says he&#8217;s on the hook with a man he knows as Boss Ibrahim from Senegal. Although Boss Ibrahim paid medical expenses when a run-in with police and soldiers sent him to the hospital, Mr. Milonga complains that the deal is unfair because he has to give Boss Ibrahim 50% of all production, then sell the rest to him at a rock-bottom price. &#8220;We work like slaves and they&#8217;re cheating us,&#8221; he says. &#8220;You can&#8217;t argue or he&#8217;ll call the police.&#8221; Another garimpeiro says his sponsor at one time was a police investigator in Cafunfo, making any negotiation pointless.</p>
<p>Concerns about security forces are never far away. Last year, as part of the latest effort to expel Congolese diggers, the Angolan army moved into the area in force. In recent months patrols have paid a visit to the mine, harassing miners and slapping them with the flat side of their machetes, the miners say. The diggers worry that the army is just waiting until they hit gravel so they can move in and take the diamonds for themselves.</p>
<p>Near another illegal mining site, peasants described a similar scenario. In December, an army patrol swept through the village of Bundo in search of mining tools, says Cazanguia Andre, the 60-year-old deputy chief of the village. He says he ran into them on the way back from tilling his field, and they accused him of being a garimpeiro. They then hit him twice in the head with a rifle butt and struck him with a pole, he adds, breaking his arm. Later, after they discovered shovels at the local church, which Mr. Andre says were being used for construction, they arrested three people. </p>
<p>A lieutenant at a nearby temporary army encampment declined to be interviewed but said his squad hasn&#8217;t committed any abuses of the local population and isn&#8217;t involved in any mining activities.</p>
<p>Back in Bundo, four garimpeiros give a different story. They say when soldiers swept through they discovered the garimpeiros working with a water pump in a pit. The soldiers confiscated the pump. Then a negotiation ensued, says one garimpeiro, and the soldiers agreed to give back the pump in exchange for $54—as well as a split of the action. &#8220;When we hit the gravel, the soldiers will be present to get their share,&#8221; he says.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><strong>Blood diamonds were bred out of civil wars. The wars maybe over but the corruption has just gone higher up the ladder. Puppet masters of blood diamonds are the governments themselves. If the U.S. continues to barter and trade with corrupt regimes, then the U.S. buying public has no one to blame for the blood that is on our hands. &#8211;Fred Cuellar</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704198004575311282588959188.html?mod=WSJ_WSJ_US_World" rel="nofollow" >Click here for original article.</a></p>
<p>Recommended Article: <a href="http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/blood-diamonds/">Blood Diamonds</a></p>
<p>More questions? <a href="http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/">Ask the Diamond Guy®</a> </p>


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		<title>De Beers to Reduce Diamond Supply 50% on U.S. Slump</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/de-beers-to-reduce-diamond-supply-50-on-us-slump/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/de-beers-to-reduce-diamond-supply-50-on-us-slump/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Feb 2009 17:43:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>tdomf_e012a</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=1246</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[De Beers, the world’s largest diamond producer, will reduce the amount of rough gems offered to customers by about 50 percent until April after U.S. retail sales slumped over Christmas.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By Carli Lourens for Bloomberg</br></p>
<p>Jan. 21 (Bloomberg) &#8212; De Beers, the world’s largest diamond producer, will reduce the amount of rough gems offered to customers by about 50 percent until April after U.S. retail sales slumped over Christmas.</br></p>
<p>Retail sales in the U.S., the world’s largest diamond market, dropped by as much as 20 percent over Christmas and “underperformed” the company’s expectations, said <a href="http://search.bloomberg.com/search?q=Varda+Shine&amp;site=wnews&amp;client=wnews&amp;proxystylesheet=wnews&amp;output=xml_no_dtd&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;oe=UTF-8&amp;filter=p&amp;getfields=wnnis&amp;sort=date:D:S:d1" rel="nofollow" >Varda Shine</a>, head of Johannesburg-based De Beers’s marketing unit. The drop in full-year U.S. sales was in “the high single digits,” Shine said in a speech yesterday, a copy of which was e-mailed today.</br></p>
<p>Consumers in the U.S., which accounts for about half of global retail sales, are reining in spending as the economy shrinks. ZAO Alrosa, Russia’s diamond monopoly, said last month it expects fourth-quarter sales last year to drop 31 percent below average quarterly levels. Toronto-based BRC DiamondCore Ltd. said last week it will extend a shutdown at its South African operations and start talks with labor unions over job cuts because of “depressed” diamond prices.</br></p>
<p>Global demand contracted marginally last year and will do so again this year, Shine said. Diamond prices fell about 11 percent in the last six months according to an index compiled by Polished Prices, which tracks prices.</br></p>
<p>“The diamond market will worsen before improving, simply because the chill of global recession is going to become increasingly evident in the form of accelerating job losses,” <a href="http://search.bloomberg.com/search?q=Des+Kilalea&amp;site=wnews&amp;client=wnews&amp;proxystylesheet=wnews&amp;output=xml_no_dtd&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;oe=UTF-8&amp;filter=p&amp;getfields=wnnis&amp;sort=date:D:S:d1" rel="nofollow" >Des Kilalea</a>, an analyst at RBC Capital Markets in London, wrote in a report yesterday. “People don’t rush out to buy luxury goods in a recession.”</br></p>
<p>‘Limited Market’</br></p>
<p>Generations have seen “world wars, a depression, and too many booms and busts to remember, but none of us have ever seen anything quite like this,” De Beers managing director <a href="http://search.bloomberg.com/search?q=Gareth%0APenny&amp;site=wnews&amp;client=wnews&amp;proxystylesheet=wnews&amp;output=xml_no_dtd&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;oe=UTF-8&amp;filter=p&amp;getfields=wnnis&amp;sort=date:D:S:d1" rel="nofollow" >Gareth Penny</a> told customers at a function late yesterday. “There is no point in producing or trying to sell it when there is a limited market for it.”</br></p>
<p>De Beers has already started reducing capital expenditure, cutting discretionary spending and reviewing staffing levels across all operations, Penny said. The company’s production cuts will be “significant,” he said.</br></p>
<p>Market reports estimate De Beers will reduce annual output “well in excess of 30 percent,” RBC said in its report.</br></p>
<p>De Beers’ sales of rough diamonds, or gems that have yet to be cut or polished, climbed 10 percent to $3.3 billion in the first half. Demand growth in China, India and the Middle East helped counter lower gem sales in the U.S.</br></p>
<p><a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/apps/quote?ticker=AAL%3ALN" rel="nofollow" >Anglo American Plc</a>, which is based in London, owns 45 percent of De Beers with the rest owned by the Oppenheimer family and the government of <a href="http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/africa/botswana_pol95.jpg" rel="nofollow"  target="_blank">Botswana</a>.</br></p>
<p><a href="http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601116&amp;refer=africa&amp;sid=aZ7ghJHB7CWI" rel="nofollow" >Original Article on Bloomberg.com.</a></p>


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		<title>Blood Diamonds</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/blood-diamonds/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/blood-diamonds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Jan 2009 17:26:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Blood diamonds are synonymous with conflict diamonds. The term is designed to dramatically emphasize that behind the glamorous image of diamonds lies a web of corruption, influence peddling and brutality in some parts of the diamond-producing world.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Blood diamonds are synonymous with conflict diamonds. The term is designed to dramatically emphasize that behind the glamorous image of diamonds lies a web of corruption, influence peddling and brutality in some parts of the diamond-producing world.</div>
<div>Consumers began clamoring for assurances that the diamonds they desired were not being used to finance conflicts. To that end an alliance of government, civil and industry groups created the “Kimberley Process” to clean up the trade in rough diamonds.</div>
<div>First, in 1998 the United Nations (UN) initiated action that culminated with the establishment of the “Kimberley Process.” However, the UN’s definition of the term blood diamond or conflict diamond is very narrow and was designed to get everyone on board. The definition reads as follows:</div>
<div>“A blood diamond (conflict diamond) refers to a diamond mined in a war zone and sold in order to finance an insurgency, invading army’s war efforts, or supporting a warlord’s activity.”</div>
<div>Next, in July 2000, the World Diamond Congress in Antwerp passed a resolution blocking the sale of blood diamonds. The resolution installed an international certification system on the export and import of diamonds. Countries could only accept sealed packages of diamonds with an official seal, and criminal charges would be levied against anyone and everyone trafficking in blood diamonds.</div>
<div>Six months later, in January 2001, the top elements of the diamond industry formed a new organization—the World Diamond Council. They drafted a process whereby all know diamond rough could be “certified” as coming from a non-conflict zone. Thus, the “Kimberley Process” was created and approved by the UN in March 2002. The United States followed with the Clean Diamond Act in April 2003, and the “Kimberley Process” became law in the United States.</div>
<div>According to the “Kimberley Process” website, there are now 46 members blessed by the Kimberley experts. Only the Ivory Coast (Africa) has rebel forces that control diamond production, but less than 0.2% of the industry.</div>
<div>Our narrative could end here, but I have a much broader definition for a blood diamond. Here is my definition:</div>
<ul>
<li>Any diamond that was mined using oppressed labor in unsanitary working conditions.</li>
<li>Any diamond whose oppressed labor force was victimized in the form of rape, mutilations (loss of arms or legs), beatings, verbal abuse, unconscionable working hours, and below poverty wage structure.</li>
<li>Any diamond that the company who mined it or controls its tariffs is part of a monopoly.</li>
<li>Any diamond that funds wars or corporate greed where profits supersede human life.</li>
<li>Any diamond that is used to oppress any human life or the extinction of any race, tribe or sub-culture.</li>
<li>Any diamond that is purposely graded incorrectly and marketed for corporate profits instead of consumer satisfaction.</li>
<li>Any diamond that is sold at a price above its secondary market resale value forcing the consumer to take a significant loss if it was to be resold.</li>
</ul>
<div>So, what percentage of diamonds sold in the world today are blood diamonds? Well, maybe the question should be what percentage of diamonds are NOT blood diamonds.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>by Fred Cuellar, author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/index.php/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a></div>


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		<title>Building Noah’s Ark &amp; Joining Lucy</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/building-noah%e2%80%99s-ark-joining-lucy/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/building-noah%e2%80%99s-ark-joining-lucy/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Jan 2009 17:22:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[When men began to increase in numbers on Earth and daughters were born onto them,2 the sons of God saw that the daughters of men were beautiful, and they married any of whom they chose.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>Genesis 6 (New International Version)</strong></div>
<div><strong>1</strong><br />
When men began to increase in numbers on Earth and daughters were born onto them,2 the sons of God saw that the daughters of men were beautiful, and they married any of whom they chose.3 Then the LORD said, “my spirit will not contend with man forever, for he is mortal; his days will be a hundred and twenty years.”</div>
<p><strong>4</strong><br />
The Nephilim were on the Earth in those days- and also afterward- when the sons of God went to the daughters of men and had children with them. They were the heroes of old, men of renown.</p>
<p><strong>5</strong><br />
The LORD saw how great man’s wickedness on the Earth had become, and that every inclination of the thoughts of his heart was only on evil all the time.6 The LORD was grieved that he had made man on the Earth and his heart was filled with pain.7 So the LORD said, “I will wipe mankind whom I have created, from the face of the Earth- men and animals, and creatures that move along the ground, and birds of the air- for I am grieved that I have made them.”</p>
<div>Well, let’s see. In the last couple of weeks Bear Stearns got bought out by JP Morgan Chase for $2.00 a share; oil broke past $110 a barrel; the dollar dropped to an all-time low against the Yen and the Euro; the housing crisis is still out of control; gold passed $1,000.00 an ounce and platinum past $2,200.00 an ounce. The president is telling us the check is in the mail.</div>
<div>Now I have an idea how Noah felt before the Great Flood. I also have an idea how he must have felt after it started raining. Having built his ark he must have felt relieved! (If there was rain with no ark, he would have been kicking himself!). In the current economic climate, anyone who has jewelry, is thinking of getting jewelry, or is trying to unload jewelry, needs to build a financial Noah’s Ark to get them through the storm that is currently upon us. Here’s what you need to know.</div>
<div>Contemplating on buying jewelry? Diamonds- yes! Metals- no!</div>
<div>Diamond prices are up over 40% in the last two years, and in certain sizes and qualities, prices are expected to double by 2010. If you’re thinking about getting an engagement ring, thinking about upgrading for your anniversary, looking to buy your dream rock, DO IT NOW! Not tomorrow, or this Christmas, NOW! You can thank me later! Diamonds are hot since DeBeers closed their last three underground mines in September 2005 and the prices are going to get very, very, very expensive before they level off. They won’t go down. Read my lips, the prices are in the process of doubling and tripling; they won’t go down. Okay, now let’s say you just bought a new diamond and now want to pick out a gorgeous platinum or fancy white/yellow gold setting… STOP! Keep the setting simple. If you have an old setting you can use over the next 15-18 months, do it. Metal prices have risen as far as the secondary market will allow. Tons of scrap gold and platinum are flooding back into the primary market that is extinguishing the scarcity. The “hot” metals market is ending and you can thank the greed of consumers who are taking all their old jewelry and cashing it in. Within the next year to year and a half, platinum will be back to under $1,000.00 an ounce and gold will be sitting comfortably around $500.00 an ounce (where it should have been years ago). The point is, don’t buy an expensive setting now that will be half-price next year!</div>
<div>Have jewelry you want to unload? Go to you local jeweler and ask about cashing out any old piece of jewelry while you still can. While I write this article gold has already dropped -$61.00 an ounce! The chance to forget eBay and sell all your old baubles and beads will soon be over!</div>
<div>A smart jewelry portfolio is like Noah’s Ark. In the Ark should be one or two of your favorite things that you love to wear and everything else should be liquidated. If you are a true connoisseur of diamonds, you’re going to need all the cash you can get from the stuff you don’t wear anymore so you can immediately buy the diamonds of your dreams before the prices are out reach!</div>
<div>Don’t let Lucy be the only one in the sky with diamonds!</div>
<div>Happy buying/selling!</div>
<p>
<div>by Fred Cuellar,                 author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/index.php/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a> </div>


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		<title>The Blue Nile Blues</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/the-blue-nile-blues/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/the-blue-nile-blues/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Jan 2009 17:21:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=488</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A little over a year ago, Blue Nile stock peaked at $106.16. As of close of market today, the stock was at $22.90. What a difference a year makes! One might ask if the stock was over priced or the business model is unraveling, or is it just bad timing?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>A little over a year ago, Blue Nile stock peaked at $106.16. As of close of market today, the stock was at $22.90. What a difference a year makes! One might ask if the stock was over priced or the business model is unraveling, or is it just bad timing?</div>
<p> </p>
<div>For those of you who don’t know about Blue Nile, let them, in their own words describe what they do.</div>
<p> </p>
<div>“The company is built on a unique idea: choosing an engagement ring doesn’t have to be complicated. Diamonds can be simple to understand. Making the right choice can be easy.”</div>
<p> </p>
<div>A few years ago, Bear Stearns, AIG, Fannie May, Freddie Mac, Lehman Brothers, Wachovia, Ford, G.M., IndyMac, American Express and countless others said to us with a very similar drum beat, “Buying is easy, credit is easy, credit default swaps and derivatives aren’t complicated, come follow us to the land of riches. Follow us to easy street with cars and homes and diamonds. You deserve a McMansion. You earned a Mercedes Benz. Life is short; buy now! It’s easy! Just charge it! That’s the American way! Want to start a war or two to feel better about 9-11? No problem! Just charge it! Put it on the tab! Pay for it later! Bills? Just pay the minimum. You don’t want to miss the Grand Old Party!</div>
<p> </p>
<div>Well America, “Easy come, Easy Go.” On the world stage, all the developed nations took the short cut and are shocked that we stabbed ourselves in the back.</div>
<p> </p>
<div>Buying should never be easy. It should be hard. It should be thought out. It should be complicated enough to stop our impulse buying reptilian brains from stockpiling more crap that we could use in ten life times. Half the world doesn’t have clean running water and depends on fire as the main source of energy, and we want easy?</div>
<p> </p>
<div>Blue Nile believed they could build a company with no assets. No skin in the game; use other companies’ inventory, play middle man and walk away with an Ebay broker commission. Did it work? Kinda—until customers found out they couldn’t return merchandise they didn’t need after 30 days—until customers found out that they couldn’t exchange mistakes after 30 days—until customers found out that all those precious “certificates” that Blue Nile proudly tout with every diamond sale don’t guarantee the quality or authenticity of what they bought.</div>
<p> </p>
<div>How would you feel about buying a refrigerator and getting home and realize you got a trash compactor? A little crushed?</div>
<p> </p>
<div>Sadly, in the end Blue Nile, if they survive will be remembered not for top quality at the best price but as a consolidator of ground round that has passed its expiration date. Is it still safe to consume? Don’t ask me; I like to buy things with my eyes wide open from someone who stands behind their product and is there for me if anything goes wrong.</div>
<p>
<div>by Fred Cuellar,                 author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/index.php/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a> </div>


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		<title>Miners unearth the world&#8217;s biggest diamond</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/miners-unearth-the-worlds-biggest-diamond/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/miners-unearth-the-worlds-biggest-diamond/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Dec 2008 17:31:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=499</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The 203 carat Millennium Star is the second biggest flawless diamond. The newly found stone could produce a stone even bigger.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>·</strong> South African find is twice as big as the Cullinan<br />
<strong>·</strong> Expert predicts feverish bidding on huge stone</div>
<p><strong>David Beresford in Johannesburg and Lee Glendinning<br />
Tuesday August 28, 2007<br />
<a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,2157443,00.html" rel="nofollow"  target="_blank">The Guardian</a></strong></p>
<table border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="20" width="381" align="right">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="113" align="center">
<div><img src="/wp-content-images/diamond-education/diamond-articles/203ct_MStar.gif" border="0" alt="Millennium Star diamond" width="127" height="150" title="Miners unearth the worlds biggest diamond " /></div>
</td>
<td width="214" align="left" valign="middle">
<div>The 203 carat Millennium Star<br />
is the second biggest flawless diamond.</div>
<div>The newly found stone could produce a stone even bigger.</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div>The world&#8217;s biggest diamond, believed to be twice the size of the Cullinan, has been discovered in the North-West Province of South Africa. The find has electrified the diamond community, but the circumstances of the discovery are shrouded in mystery.</div>
<div>The diamond is expected to attract furious bidding from buyers worldwide and could fetch up to £15m.</div>
<div>A spokesman for the mining house which made yesterday&#8217;s find, Brett Joli, said the diamond was being rushed to a bank vault in Johannesburg and would be kept there for a couple of days &#8220;until we calm down and decide what we are going to do&#8221;. A security company was being hired to protect the precious stone.</div>
<div>The mining company which made the find has not been identified.</div>
<div>The South Africa Broadcasting Corporation said the stone was said to be twice the size of the Cullinan diamond.</div>
<div>Fred Cuellar, the founder of Diamond Cutters International and author of How to Buy a Diamond, said he first heard about the find a few days ago. &#8220;I get a phone call when any rare stone around the world is found and when I heard about this one it was stunning news.</div>
<div>&#8220;It caught everybody in the diamond industry offside. There will be a lot of mad bidding from a lot of private individuals as to who is going to buy this stone.&#8221;</div>
<div>The Cullinan, which was found near Pretoria more than a century ago, was until recently acknowledged to be the largest cut diamond in the world, weighing in at 530.20 carats. In 1985 it lost the record to the Golden Jubilee, which was found in the same mine as the Cullinan and weighed 545.67 carats.</div>
<div>In its rough state the Cullinan weighed 3,106.75 carats. It now forms part of King Edward&#8217;s sceptre and is in the Tower of London.<br />
The Cartier diamond, famous as a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor, weighed a mere 240.80 carats rough and 69.42 carats cut.</div>
<div>Mr Cuellar said the most important information about the latest find was yet to be forthcoming, including whether it is colourless. &#8220;The reported size of the stone is accurate, but there are all these other factors we still don&#8217;t know and what matters now is how wide, how clear and how well cut it will be.</div>
<div>&#8220;Will this diamond rank above the best quality diamonds in the world? I can tell you right now, no. But in as far as the list of the largest diamonds ever found in the world goes, would it make that list? Yes it would.&#8221;</div>
<div>He said the first seven people who looked at the stone thought it was industrial grade, but that view has changed and it now appears to be a stone that will be cut into a piece of jewellery.</div>
<div>The quandary facing the owner of the diamond now is how best to cut the stone he said. &#8220;The thinking usually is with these types of things, we know how big we could get it but we don&#8217;t know how much it will hurt us on the quality side.&#8221;</div>
<div>The Cullinan, also known as the Star of Africa, was thought by some to be part of a larger stone which still lies somewhere undiscovered.<br />
There will be interest in who made the find and how they will be rewarded. The black miner who discovered the Excelsior, said to be the second largest uncut diamond ever found, received a horse and saddle, and a sum of money.</div>
<div><strong>Rock stars</strong></div>
<ul>
<li>The <strong>Cullinan Diamond</strong> was discovered in 1905 and at 3,106 carats was the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found. Cullinan I, or the <strong>Great Star of Africa</strong> &#8211; at 530 carats formerly the largest cut diamond &#8211; was one of the 105 gems cut from it.</li>
<li>The <strong>Koh-i-noor</strong> is part of the British crown jewels. It originated in India but seized by Britain as a spoil of war in 1849. The diamond supposedly brings good luck to female owners and misfortune or death to any male who wears or owns it.</li>
<li>The <strong>Hope Diamond</strong> is a large (45.52 carat), deep blue diamond. It is legendary for the curse it supposedly puts on whoever possesses it. Previous owners include Kings Louis XV and XVI and Marie Antoinette.</li>
</ul>


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		<title>What’s in a Name?</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/what%e2%80%99s-in-a-name/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/what%e2%80%99s-in-a-name/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:08:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=535</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Is one brand of diamonds the best?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>The Brand Naming of Diamonds</strong></div>
<p>
<div>Whether most people                 realize it or not the diamond industry has been going through a                 revolution over the past few years. From Baked Diamonds1,                Bonded Diamonds2, to Color Typing3, the diamond industry                is going through  a major face-lift. And it isn&#8217;t over yet. It                won&#8217;t be long before                 the slogan &#8220;A Diamond is Forever&#8221; will be replaced with                 &#8221; A DeBeers Diamond is Forever&#8221; or some other name brand                 or stamp to segregate themselves from the pack.</div>
<p>
<div>No longer will any                 large diamond conglomerate do generic advertising that will benefit                the new competitors on the block. With DeBeers strangle hold of                the world&#8217;s diamond market barely at 60% from their good old days                of 85%, their long held monopoly is over.Other players like Argyle                Diamond Mines from Australia, Ekati from Canada and the Russian                United Syndicate                are staking their claim to a piece of the polished diamond pie.</div>
<p>
<div>What this means to the consumer is, each diamond                 syndicate will be stating why their diamonds meet a higher level                 of excellence then their competitors. Soon you&#8217;ll be doing the &#8220;Pepsi                 Challenge&#8221; but with diamonds. I can just see the ads now. Let                 me set the stage. A dark candle-lit restaurant; cherries jubilee                 have just been served, the Dom Perignon has been poured; then you&#8217;ll                 see a dark haired man with chiseled good looks say &#8220;Darling,                 you are the light that engulfs my life. Would you make me the happiest                 man in the world and be my wife&#8221;. At that moment he&#8217;ll pop                 open a little black box and reveal a beautiful diamond engagement                 ring. The next thing you&#8217;ll see is her closing the box and handing                 it back and say &#8220;Listen baby, if I&#8217;m not good enough for an                 original DeBeers diamond, the King of Diamonds, then I&#8217;m going to                 have to say No!&#8221; At that moment the narrator will say &#8220;Why                 would you take a chance on a copy cat when a DeBeers original is                 where it&#8217;s at. A DeBeers diamond when our one of a kind meets your                 one of a kind!&#8221; Oh, brother!!</div>
<p>
<div>The thought of this                 sickens me but I know its coming. With the breakup of the DeBeers                 monopoly, DeBeers has no choice but to start marketing their diamonds                 as the first, the best, the original. Whether they will use their                 famous DeBeers name or market under another name remains to be seen.                 Through a massive media campaign which has already started in the                 U.K. DeBeers will try to intimate that they choose only the purest                 ripest, most succulent diamonds in the world. (Maybe they&#8217;ll team                 up with Sunkist) That their standard of excellence supercedes the                 Canadians, the Australians or the Russians.</div>
<p>
<div>Listen folks, regardless                 of where you dig up a diamond or who mines it, a diamond is a diamond.                Slick advertising campaigns may have convinced women from here                to                Japan that a diamond deserves to be on their wish list but to say                that one brand name diamond, like the Millennium diamond, is better                than another of the same quality just because of who is selling                it is ridiculous.</div>
<p>
<div>Every diamond syndicate                 will be selling great diamonds, good diamonds and crappy ones, Don&#8217;t                 let the new advertising onslaught that is to come convince you otherwise.                 Every consumer will still have to go over the 4 C&#8217;s and warranties                 on any diamond they might consider buying regardless of what label                 is stuck on the rock. Is Coke better than Pepsi? You decide, but                 is a DeBeers diamond better than an Argyle diamond? The answer is                 No!</div>
<p>
<div>Footnotes</div>
<p>
<div>1. A Baked diamond                 is a diamond that has been heat treated to remove nitrogen or boron                 from a diamond to improve its color. Baked diamonds are brittle                                and less valuable.</div>
<p>
<div>2. A Bonded diamond                 is a diamond that is fully warranted by the jeweler and covers breakage,                 buy back, exchange and authenticity.</div>
<p>
<div>3. Color typing                 is the divisioning of individual color grades into types to more                 accurately assess the diamonds nitrogen context.</div>
<p>
<div>by Fred Cuellar,                 author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/index.php/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a> </div>


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		<title>Warping</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/warping/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/warping/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:07:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=533</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A crown and pavilion angle measurement trick.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>One more thought on crown &amp; pavilion angles                 for the perfectionist </strong></div>
<p>
<div>Is it possible for                 any single round or fancy shaped diamond to have more than one crown                 angle or pavilion angle? You bet! In fact a round diamond can be                 checked anywhere on its circumference and fancy shaped diamonds,                 usually checked at the 3 and 9 clock positions, can also be measured                 slightly off those positions to render multiple crowns and pavilion                 angles.</div>
<p>
<div>Now here is the                 million dollar question. When a lab grading report appraisal is                done, which crown and pavilion angle are you given? Are you given                the                best one? Probably. The worst one? Not likely. In an ever competitive                race for your dollar, the cutter, the jeweler, and even the appraiser                can be caught up in “warping.”</div>
<p>
<div>Warping is the placement                 of accurate pavilion and crown angles on the diamond but solely                 in one location. The rest of the crown and pavilion angles are off                 to the benefit of weight retention. There are two types of warped                 diamonds &#8211; inward and outward. An inward warped diamond may have                 the side of the pavilion slightly curved to pickup the correct measurement.                 In an outward warped diamond there is a slight bulge in one location                 above or below the girdle. Warps to a good cutter can make that                 cutter many more dollars. Knowing that most labs and appraisal services                 check for the best measurement or an average lets a cutter push                 through a diamond as a class 1 or 2 when in actuality it is a class                 3 or 4 (a poorly proportioned diamond).</div>
<p>
<div>In purchasing your                 diamond don&#8217;t be afraid to ask the question, “Is the crown                 and pavilion on my diamond based on a single measurement, an average                 or on the worst?”</div>
<p>
<div>If a diamond’s                 worst crown and pavilion angles are acceptable then surely the rest                 will be as well. You can also ask for minimum and maximum pavilion                 and crown angles to see the extremes in both directions. If a jeweler                 doesn’t know how the angles are derived then I would not put                 much faith in the numbers he tells you.</div>
<p>
<div>PS: The only two pieces of equipment that can                accurately check for warping are Sarin and Megascope machines.                Also see <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/diamond_education/articles/reference/parts_of_the_stone.html" rel="nofollow" >Diamond:                 Parts of the Stone</a> and <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/diamond_education/articles/reference/diamond_terms.html" rel="nofollow" >A                 Glossary of Diamond Terms</a>.</div>
<p>
<div>by Fred Cuellar,                 author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/index.php/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a> </div>


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		<title>Tricks of the Trade</title>
		<link>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/tricks-of-the-trade/</link>
		<comments>http://www.diamondcuttersintl.com/tricks-of-the-trade/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:03:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Understanding the Diamond Trade]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://diamondcuttersintl.com/?p=531</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Don’t get duped by these tricks, gimmicks, and scams.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><strong>BLUE                 DIAMOND BLUES</strong></div>
<p>
<div>Some jewelers may                 try to market a “blue-white” diamond as though it were                 a white diamond with a hint of blue, and more valuable than a plain                 white diamond. It’s not! It’s a diamond that fluoresces                 blue and is therefore less valuable. Avoid it!</div>
<p>
<div><strong>THE                 “50% OFF” SALE</strong></div>
<p>
<div>Browsing through                 your Sunday paper you spot an exciting ad: a local jeweler is having                 a “50% Off” sale on diamonds! Wow! You jump into your                 car, drive to the store, and you make what you are sure is an incredible                 buy on a one-carat diamond.You’re still patting yourself on                 the back a week later when you happen to walk past another jewelry                 store where you see the same size, same quality diamond selling                 for less than what you paid and it’s their regular price! What                 happened?</div>
<p>
<div>You were taken in                 by a fake sale. Many jewelers run these sales. They’ll take                 a diamond that is worth, say, $1,000 wholesale and instead of marking                 it up 100%, which is standard practice, they mark it up 400% and                 tell you that $4,000 is the regular price when in fact the regular                 price for such a stone would be $2,000. Then the jeweler takes 50%                 off the inflated price and sells it to you for full retail, $2,000.</div>
<p>
<div>The way to know                 if you’re really getting a sale price is to compare the jeweler’s                 price with the wholesale price list in the book. If the jeweler’s                 regular price is more than double the wholesale price, you’re                 not getting any bargain.</div>
<p>
<div>For example: Joe’s                 Jewelry Store has a one-carat VS1-G on sale for $12,400, marked                 down from $24,800. You look at my price list and see that a one-carat                 VS1-G wholesales for $6,200. Therefore, full retail should be $12,400.                 Joe has artificially inflated the “regular” price to trick                 you into believing you’re getting a bargain.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>“BAIT                 AND SWITCH”</strong></div>
<p>
<div>This is a term that’s                 been around for a long time, and it’s not limited to the diamond                 business. Bait and switch refers to anyone who runs an advertising                 special on a particular item just to get you into the store. When                 you go to the store, however, you’re told that the advertised                 item is sold out. Then they try to sell you something else &#8211; invariably,                 something more expensive. The jeweler hopes that since you’ve                 already made the trip to the store, you won’t want to go home                 empty-handed.</div>
<p>
<div>Don’t be impatient!                 Many people arrive at the store determined to buy something and                 get talked into something they don’t really want. Take control!                 Grade the jeweler using the Jeweler Questionnaire Sheet in my book,                 and if he or she passes the test, stick around and look at some                 diamonds, using a scratch sheet to check each one. Compare the prices                 to the wholesale prices in the book to see what kind of deal you’re                 being offered, and for an exact updated price on a particular stone,                 call my HelpLine.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>“IS                 WHITE REALLY WHITE?”</strong></div>
<p>
<div>Jewelers love diamonds                 that fluoresce blue, and will sometimes install special lighting                 to enhance the fluorescence of their diamonds. The blue masks                the                 yellow color that might be in the diamond and makes it appear to                 be a higher color grade than it really is. Always take the loose                                diamond you’re looking at and place it on a white background                to check the color, and make sure there are no spotlights shining                on                it. Always take the loose diamond you’re looking at and place                it on a white background to check the color, and make sure there                are no spotlights shining on it.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>“GRADE                 BUMPING”</strong></div>
<p>
<div>The Federal Trade                 Commission requires that a diamond be within one clarity and one                 color grade of what it is originally sold as. Because of this, jewelers                 tend to “bump” the grade. For example, if a jeweler buys                 a stone as a VS1-G, he’ll bump it up and sell it as a VVS2-F.                 If you buy it as a VVS2-F and have it appraised as a VS1-G, the                 dealer is legally covered, because he sold it within one grade of                 what it really is.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>“THE               FRACTION SCAM”</strong></div>
<p>
<div>Some jewelers will                 list the weights of their diamonds only in fractions, such as 3/4                 of a carat. Your next question should be, “Well, is it 75 points                 are not?” Many jewelers will call anything from 65 to 75 points                 a 3/4 carat diamond. These same jewelers will call anything from                 90 points to 100 points a full carat. This is illegal. A diamond                 must weigh within half a point of its stated weight. You’ll                 notice a jeweler will never round a diamond down they’d never                 call an 85-pointer a 3/4 carat stone. Ask the jeweler to weigh the                 stone, in front of you, on an electronic scale. If he says he can’t                 because it’s in a setting, you shouldn’t be looking at                 it anyway. Only buy loose diamonds.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>“THE                 OLD SWITCHEROO”</strong></div>
<p>
<div>You’ve shopped                 around, rated the jewelers, graded the diamonds, and finally found                 the stone you want. You lay your money down and order a setting.                 When you get the ring, you have it independently appraised &#8211; only                 to discover that the diamond in the ring isn’t the same stone                you purchased! The jeweler has pulled a switcheroo. You go back                and                confront him, and he accuses you of switching stones. What now?</div>
<p>
<div>Well, sad to say,                 you’re stuck. There’s really nothing you can do, no way                 to prove a switch was made. You must prevent the switcheroo before                 it happens.</div>
<p>
<div>When you decide                 on a diamond, get the jeweler to put in writing the exact weight,                 and the clarity and color grades of the stone. Before he diamond                 is mounted, have the jeweler show you where the blemishes and inclusions                 are, and plot them on a drawing. Keep this drawing with you, and                 when you return to pick up the mounted diamond, check it again,                 looking for the same flaws that are on your drawing. If they match,                 you have the right diamond.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>“THE                 SANDBAGGER”</strong></div>
<p>
<div>If you’ve purchased                 a diamond by following all my instructions, you shouldn’t feel                 the need to go to an independent appraiser to double-check your                 purchase. But if you do, watch out for the sandbagger! The sandbagger                 is someone who lies to you and tells you that you’ve been taken,                 that your diamond isn’t worth what you paid for it. Why would                 he do that? So that he can recommend where you should buy your diamonds                 &#8211; no doubt at a place which gives him a kickback! Or he may tell                 you, “You should have bought from me.”</div>
<p>
<div>Fred’s Advice: If you ever want to have                the diamond checked, don’t take a chance. Send it to GIA              for an unbiased opinion.</div>
<p>
<div><strong>“THE                 VANISHING ACT”</strong></div>
<p>
<div>Now you see it &#8211;                 now you don’t! Carbon, that is. There is a laser beam process                 for removing carbon from inside a diamond. It’s called laser                 drilling. A diamond that contains black carbon, visible with a 10X                 loupe, is zapped with a fine laser beam which vaporizes the carbon,                 removing the black spot.The problem is that the laser beam creates                 a tunnel from the surface of the diamond to where the carbon used                 to be. You might not be able to see this tunnel with the naked eye,                 but you’ll see it under a loupe. And if a stone has been drilled                 several times, it can be weakened.</div>
<p>
<div>Laser drilling can                 make a diamond more attractive to the eye, but it can also lower                 the resale value. Beware! The Federal Trade Commission no longer                 requires jewelers to disclose to consumers whether a diamond has                 been laser drilled.</div>
<p>
<div>by Fred Cuellar,                 author of the best-selling book &#8220;How to Buy a Diamond.&#8221; More questions? <a href="http://diamondcuttersintl.com/index.php/your-diamond-ally/ask-the-diamond-guy/" rel="nofollow" >Ask the Diamond Guy®</a> </div>


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