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Photo Gallery
Solitaires
Once you’ve found your perfect diamond you
need to find the right setting. For many people the solitaire is
the obvious choice. Clean, sleek and non-imposing, the solitaire
lets the rock do all the talking.
Featured here in our #1 and #2 photographs are
the classics, the four-prong and six-prong tiffany settings. The
six-prong tiffany was introduced by Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1886.
It was revolutionary because for the first time the diamond was
raised up from the band allowing light to enter from all sides.
In photos #3 and #4 we see the introduction of
two-tone classic tiffanys.
When a bride-to-be prefers to wear yellow gold
versus platinum or white gold notice only the shank (the circular
ring part) not the head (Part holding in the diamond) changes color.
This is due to the fact that yellow prongs reflect a yellow cast
onto the stone.
In photos #5 and #6 we see the introduction of
the heavy duties. In these spin-offs of the classic tiffany the
shanks are beefed up. They’re wider (generally 3mm versus a
classic tiffany being 2 – 2.5mm) and thicker. The heavy duties
are a popular choice for a multitude of reasons.
1.) Being thicker and heavier they serve as more
of an anchor to keep the rock centered on the top of the hand.
2.) If the wearer is planning to ever add a wedding
band with diamonds, the thicker band on the heavy duty will fit
flush to the wedding band.
3.) On women with long fingers and rings with
large diamonds (2ct +) heavy duties are more in proportion to the
hand.
In photos #7 and #8 we see the introduction of
the airline solitaires.
The airlines (The predecessors to the cathedrals
up next) was a further attempt by the jeweler to raise the diamond
even higher off the band. The theory goes and it is correct, that
the further the diamond is away from the finger the larger the diamond
appears to the eye as well as allowing for more light return. The
only down side to these baby-ramped wonders is if the diamond sits
too high the probability of flopping over more easily increases
ten fold. Note: With a few exceptions, those being fingers that
are carrot shaped (very rare), all solitaires flop to some degree.
The airlines are believed to have received their
names due to the air underneath the ramping lines of the side of
the shank shaped like a triangle. Others believe that the triangular
openings on either side of the head look like the wings of an airline.
The reason metal on airlines and cathedrals ramps up is to disguise
the oversized tall heads and give the illusion the diamond isn’t
setting so precariously up high. The most popular types of airlines
are the ones shown. In photo #7 we see a standard airline where
the top of the shank is rounded and in photo #8 we see the knife-edge
airline for a more minimalist type customer.
Finally we come to cathedrals, given their name
due to the fact it sets the diamond up higher than any other setting
(like the steeple of a church cathedral).
In photos #9, #10, and #11 we see higher ramps
and larger "V" openings to set the diamond over 20% higher
than an airline and over 50% higher than a classic tiffany.
Photo #9 is a classic cathedral that could be
used for a princess cut diamond. Note the "V" shaped prongs
on the head to protect the corners of a princess cut diamond.
Photo #10 is also a classic cathedral but with
a support prong between the prongs for added durability.
Photo #11 is a classic six prong cathedral.
Cathedrals are great to make small diamonds look
big but become too top heavy in diamonds over 2cts unless the shank
is made heavier.
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Photos: Courtesy Leo Ingwer
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